North Face Couloirs

From the bottom of the north face, locate a couloir that bisects the face on the right hand side, and goes up to the west ridge. Climb this couloir. The best variation is to take the left hand split, about half way up, just past a large rock tower on the right. The left hand couloir necks down and gets a little bit steeper (65 to 70 degrees) before finishing just below the summit. Alternately, climb straight up the couloir to the west ridge and scramble up to the summit. Descend as for Pacific Peak, down the east ridge. Overall, either couloir is probably about 1000 feet long.

This route is in condition, probably most of the year. Beware of serious cornices on the west ridge above the route. Stone fall is also present as well. In spring, this is primarily a snow climb. By late summer, the left-hand couloir will melt out, necessitating some easy 5th class climbing on the side.

This is primarily a snow and ice climb, but there is plenty of potential for rock gear along the sides of the couloir. Maybe take a small rack of gear and a couple of ice screws.