Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Fascist Drill in the West

5.11b, Trad, Sport,  Avg: 3 from 11 votes
FA: Mike Caldwell and Randy Ferris
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Book > J-Crack Slab Area
Warning Access Issue: Closure Notice DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23 DetailsDrop down

Description

This great pitch is located on the far right side of the Book. Begin up a corner just right of Mission Impossible, and stem up a thin corner that meets a roof. Climb right to a slabby stance, clip a bolt at the lip of the roof, and pull straight over. Then more slabbin' (crux) up a line of bolts to the chains of Mission Impossible.

Protection

Rack to two inches and some draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Taking a toprope lap on Fascist Drill in the West.
[Hide Photo] Taking a toprope lap on Fascist Drill in the West.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Crusty
[Hide Comment] Although well enough protected for a hardman like Dubois, this excellent pitch is about ripe for some maintenance. The Bugaboo protecting the move below the roof is missing (as are the pins on Adventures of B-Dog just left of this route). Also the bolts, although 3/8", are in their late teenage years. Jul 17, 2002
Crusty
[Hide Comment] Also, bring a 60m rope or be ready for a little 5.0 down climbing. Jul 17, 2002
Anonymous Coward
[Hide Comment] Onsighted this bitch today and there's no fixed pins on it. New hangars (maybe bolts? RPrp's below the roof. Anwyays, my point is that this climb deservies an R/X rating. If you fell getting to that fourth (I think it was fourth, maybe it was third--it's where ya start going straight up again, and ya hope your gonna get gear in the corner/non-crack, but it's bullshit and had me cursing my ass off at the bitch) bolt, and if the third bolt were to blow you'd be screwed with your pants on. R/X for sure, because I've always bean taught to never trust my life to just one piece and that's what your doing on this. But hey--don't fall, and it don't matter. Great climbing on this bitch though and I give it 2 stars though maybe it could be 3. It's no fall zone up there, I think it deserves R/X based on what I just told you. Sep 11, 2004
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
[Hide Comment] This is a great route which is best started from the cracks to the bottom right of the route- versus the unprotected left. All of the bolts except the first have been replaced with ASCA hardware as of 5/04. There is no X to this route when started from the right - only some wild R on quality rock with solid bolts. Jun 30, 2005
SirVato SirVato
Boulder
 
[Hide Comment] I TR'd this after doing Mission Impossible. While I was climbing through the runout bolted section (3-4) which was why I didn't want to lead this, I noticed that there USED to actually be a bolt there.
I could see the round patch of epoxy where a bolt hole had been filled. Had this been pulled for a reason?? Was it the FA's doing?
I doubt that this route was put up as is but, maybe some one can replace that bolt. Jun 12, 2006
Jeff G
Colorado
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] This is a great pitch. Probably PG-13 not R. No additional bolts are needed. You need some composure but that is what makes it a great pitch of face climbing. Oct 3, 2009