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Routes in North Face/Ridge
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Cable Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Ex-Ranger's Revenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Keyhole Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mary's Ledges T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Northwest Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Webb's Walk-up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, Grade II |
| FA: | Wickens and Gilman, 1930 |
| Page Views: | 3,114 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Bill Wright on Mar 22, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
This route ascends the right side of the prominent buttress in the center of the north face. It is about halfway between the Cables Route and the Keyhole Ridge. This route is nice alternative to the Cables Route if you want some variety. The technical difficultes are about four pitches long, so it is much longer than the one-pitch Cables route. Since it is on a buttress it is free of snow much earlier than the Cables Route and can be climbed in rock shoes (temperatures permitting) in winter.
Ascend the lower rock buttress from the left or right side. The left side is shorter if coming up from the Boulder Field and looks easier and more rock intensive. At the top of the lower buttress things look pretty intimidating - much steeper than you expect. Head up and slightly right to get into a left angling dihedral/gully system. The route is characterized by climbing up a number of left angling systems and then making tricky moves to get from one system up to the next system.
There are good, albeit small, belay ledges.
Ascend the lower rock buttress from the left or right side. The left side is shorter if coming up from the Boulder Field and looks easier and more rock intensive. At the top of the lower buttress things look pretty intimidating - much steeper than you expect. Head up and slightly right to get into a left angling dihedral/gully system. The route is characterized by climbing up a number of left angling systems and then making tricky moves to get from one system up to the next system.
There are good, albeit small, belay ledges.
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