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Urban Fringe

5.10+, Sport,  Avg: 3 from 82 votes
FA: Andrew, Glenda, and Alexi Lainis, 2000
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Gym

Description

On the North end of The Gym (referred to as the "New Gym" in Thompson's guide to Cactus/Spiny), but to the right of Black Mamba Arete, is a steep red panel that is split by a crack. Follow a line of bolts past the seam which widens to a finger, then hand crack, over a small roof. Do an exciting lieback move and pull left to two more bolts and work the crack up to the anchors. The route finishes below a roof.

A very nice route and worth the walk from Cactus and Spiny ridge. Also in the shade in the afternoon.

Protection

Eight bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bart Calkins taking a stem rest before the crux finger crack.
[Hide Photo] Bart Calkins taking a stem rest before the crux finger crack.
A happy moment on a great, happy climb.
[Hide Photo] A happy moment on a great, happy climb.
Bart Calkins at the little roof halfway up. The crux finger crack lies above.
[Hide Photo] Bart Calkins at the little roof halfway up. The crux finger crack lies above.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] A steep line up beautiful red rock. Lots of positive edges and a finger crack crux give this route a different feel than many of the Shelf pocket-fests. Oct 15, 2003
Edward Jenner
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] 2-stars for a great route marred only by the bird crap near the anchors. The small roof is more intimidating when you get to it than it looks from the ground, but there is a bomber juggy pocket to make the next clip from. Interesting, continuous and fairly steep make this route worthy May 17, 2004
MeeshCat
Westminster, CO
[Hide Comment] Very fun climb!! Great practice climbing a little crack at the top, too.... I was able to put my hand in 3 times to climb past the crux. I definitely recommend. :) Jun 24, 2016
Paul Sukow
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] The block after the crack crux is loose. It doesn't look like it, but it moves when pulled on. Oct 23, 2016