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SS Maywood

5.10, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 42 votes
FA: Steve Matous & Scott Heywood, 1975
Wyoming > Laramie Area > Vedauwoo > Blair (overview) > Upper Blair > N Corner
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Description

A good wide hand and fist crack on the North Corner. This route sees very little sun. Approach from FR705AF parking area. Hike past the 8 Ball, then uphill to the left of Long John's Tower which is directly behind the 8 Ball (tough break) with several good looking easy cracks on its north face. From the ridge left of Long John's Tower, the climb is clearly visible as a giant, left-facing dihedral on the left side of North Corner. Approach from the ledge on the right. Good rap rings, 100' depending upon where you belay.

Protection

Camalots: #2-3.5, several of each.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

About to set sail on the open seas! Looking up at the classic splitter SS Maywood.
[Hide Photo] About to set sail on the open seas! Looking up at the classic splitter SS Maywood.
SS Maywood.
[Hide Photo] SS Maywood.
Garrett Knorr on the classic, SS Maywood.
[Hide Photo] Garrett Knorr on the classic, SS Maywood.
Jeb's Layin' it back.
[Hide Photo] Jeb's Layin' it back.
Chalk up, man, you've got a long way to go! (Jeb Steward on the climb)
[Hide Photo] Chalk up, man, you've got a long way to go! (Jeb Steward on the climb)
Vanessa Logsdon on SS Maywood.
[Hide Photo] Vanessa Logsdon on SS Maywood.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joe Collins
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] You'll need two ropes to get back down to the ground from the rap anchors at the top of the dihedral. One 60m rope will deposit you on the low angle slab and will probably require a weird downclimb. I was glad to have one #4 Camalot and one #4 Friend for this pitch, and even then I was doing a ton of backcleaning and cam walking. For the small fisted, this quickly turns into an OW-fest since the better jams are in the back of the crack Aug 11, 2003
[Hide Comment] I haven't been to Alaska, but I've never seen so many mosquitos in my life, in the trees and at the base of this climb ! We ran out screaming!!! Oct 13, 2003
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] A great route for summertime, this is sort of a lost classic. Be ready for some fisticuffs. Apr 18, 2005
[Hide Comment] FA-Steve Matous follwoed by Scott Heywood 1975. Thus we named it SS MayWood. May 26, 2006
Steven Lucarelli
Grand Junction, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] This is a great route but I think one #4 Camalot and two or three #3.5 Camalots would be a better gear selection. I found that most of the #4 placements were tight and overcammed. Apr 30, 2007
Mike D
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] I lead this great climb cleanly yesterday after two previous ascents (one follow and one lead with a hang). Toughing it out for the full length was the crux for me.
My rack included a couple #4 Friends and a few #4 Camalots plus DEET. Aug 14, 2007
MTN MIA
Vail
  5.10
[Hide Comment] If you have a 70 m rope you can rap to the ground, no problem!!! The ends just reach the ground so know your middle.......

I say 3 BD#2 and a bunch of BD#3, BD#4 and one BD#4.5. There is really only one place for the latter.....

It does go down to BD#3 at the top. Jul 17, 2012
[Hide Comment] ^^^Not quite sure where you'd place 3 #2 Camalots on this. ONE #2 near the start of the dihedral.

Then a #3 Camalot, then you'll need #4 Camalots and #4 Friends (2 of each), then a #3 Camalot for right at the top.

Use a 70m rope for the rap off the anchors.

The actual meat of the climb (the dihedral) is only about 65 ft. Aug 4, 2013