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Routes in North Corner

Dance of the Infidel T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Easter Island T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jihad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
North Corner Layback 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V-easy 3
SS Maywood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed OW T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Steve Matous & Scott Heywood, 1975
Page Views: 3,723 total, 20/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on May 3, 2002
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

A good wide hand and fist crack on the North Corner. This route sees very little sun. Approach from FR705AF parking area. Hike past the 8 Ball, then uphill to the left of Long John's Tower which is directly behind the 8 Ball (tough break) with several good looking easy cracks on its north face. From the ridge left of Long John's Tower, the climb is clearly visible as a giant, left-facing dihedral on the left side of North Corner. Approach from the ledge on the right. Good rap rings, 100' depending upon where you belay.

Protection

Camalots: #2-3.5, several of each.
^^^Not quite sure where you'd place 3 #2 Camalots on this. ONE #2 near the start of the dihedral.

Then a #3 Camalot, then you'll need #4 Camalots and #4 Friends (2 of each), then a #3 Camalot for right at the top.

Use a 70m rope for the rap off the anchors.

The actual meat of the climb (the dihedral) is only about 65 ft. Aug 4, 2013
Princess Mia
Vail
  5.10
Princess Mia   Vail
  5.10
If you have a 70 m rope you can rap to the ground, no problem!!! The ends just reach the ground so know your middle.......

I say 3 BD#2 and a bunch of BD#3, BD#4 and one BD#4.5. There is really only one place for the latter.....

It does go down to BD#3 at the top. Jul 17, 2012
Mike D
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10
Mike D   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10
I lead this great climb cleanly yesterday after two previous ascents (one follow and one lead with a hang). Toughing it out for the full length was the crux for me.
My rack included a couple #4 Friends and a few #4 Camalots plus DEET. Aug 14, 2007
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10
This is a great route but I think one #4 Camalot and two or three #3.5 Camalots would be a better gear selection. I found that most of the #4 placements were tight and overcammed. Apr 30, 2007
FA-Steve Matous follwoed by Scott Heywood 1975. Thus we named it SS MayWood. May 26, 2006
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
A great route for summertime, this is sort of a lost classic. Be ready for some fisticuffs. Apr 18, 2005
I haven't been to Alaska, but I've never seen so many mosquitos in my life, in the trees and at the base of this climb ! We ran out screaming!!! Oct 13, 2003
You'll need two ropes to get back down to the ground from the rap anchors at the top of the dihedral. One 60m rope will deposit you on the low angle slab and will probably require a weird downclimb. I was glad to have one #4 Camalot and one #4 Friend for this pitch, and even then I was doing a ton of backcleaning and cam walking. For the small fisted, this quickly turns into an OW-fest since the better jams are in the back of the crack Aug 11, 2003