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Wide Crack

5.8, Trad, 70 ft,  Avg: 1 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Lost Angel

Description

Locate the start of the route Freedom. Walk back uphill to the right about 50' and look up into a hand-to-fist crack in a left-facing dihedral. After about 10' of dihedral, this becomes and 'inset' which is to say that there is an opposing right-facing dihedral to stem to. This crack begins about 30' up, above some trashy, shrubby stone.

Start in from the right of the shrubs, clipping a few bolts of the neighboring sport climb with long draws or slings until you are about 25' up. Work left and put in a 1.5" cam in an initial crack. Move up and left into the main crack and jam and plug away until reaching a large ledge rising up and to the right. Once on the ledge, clip what is the final bolt for Freedom, then move up and right to belay from the freedom anchors.

Rap from the freedom anchors, a 50m rope will do just fine.

Protection

1 set of cams, 1.5"-4", plus 4 QDs. I used 1 Ea. green, red, gold, blue and purple Camalot. More of the same might be appropriate if you want to REALLY sew this up.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Bushy. Jul 20, 2002