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Routes in Lower Capitalist Crag

Aries S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cheap Labor T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Contra S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Downsizing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flexin' Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High Tides S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lunchmoney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mounty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stroh's S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Strohs Lite S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Venture Capital S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vitamin-N S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Darren Mabe
Page Views: 193 total, 1/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Apr 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Contra is located on an upper steep head wall above Lunchmoney. The climb is about 50 feet in length. Same approach as Lunchmoney.

Three options for the approach: 1) climb Lunchmoney and continue above chains through loose fifth class about forty feet to big ramp. 2) Traverse ledge system at the base of Lunchmoney to the south and hike up the first easy ramp to the top. 3) climb Mounty (5.7 trad) to ramp.

Up, Up, Down, Down, Left, Right, Left, Right, B, A, Start.

Please confirm rating, as this is a new route.

Protection

Four protection bolts, two bolt anchor with webbing. (Chains will be there soon....) TCU handy for start.

Photos

303scott
5.11
303scott  
5.11
If Strohs and Venture Capital are 11a, this is easily 11b. The rock is fairly friable so maybe some holds have broken off? Two distinct .11 cruxes I thought. Jul 13, 2015
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.11a
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.11a
I don't see how a dyno at the top is necessary. I felt it was fairly static by going with the left hand and rotating the left hip into the wall. Fun, thoughtful route. Nov 8, 2010
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.11b
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.11b
Fun climb, but ledges divert one's attention from the moves on lead. Don't know of any local 10b like this. 2 lunges at 5'10" +2. With a 60m rope, you can rap to Lunchmoney's anchors if Monty has traffic. Jun 3, 2004
Matt Juth
Evergreen
  5.11a
Matt Juth   Evergreen
  5.11a
I am biased being that I am restricted to a dyno for the hold at the top, but 10b? Sorry, Piz, we are just mere mortals.... Oct 6, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Looks like there is a math error, whereas if the original route poster does not specify a grade, then other people add 'consensus' grades, the rating average is divided by N+1, not N, and thus the grade is mathematically sandbagged. Myke & Ben, one to work on. May 27, 2003
Drew Allan
Denver/Aspen
  5.10d
Drew Allan   Denver/Aspen
  5.10d
I have to agree with Bryson. On sight this route is 11ish or at least 10d++. I am also 6' and had trouble finding the right sequence just before the anchor. I certainly didn't find a hidden hold to make it 10b. Although it is short, the route is harder than most 10c/d's in CC (to qualify: CC 10c/d only!!). The route is definitely steeper and more edgy than I expected. Make sure to bring your edging shoes. Footholds down low on the right side are still flaking off somewhat. If you come from Lunchmoney, note the old pin above the anchor and pass it and head up and right to Contra. Be Careful with the lichen and loose rock.

NOTE: There is a big Raven/Crow's nest to the right of the top of this route with three to four babies in there. Mom wasn't happy to have us there. I didn't see the nest until I got to the anchors. It might be advisable to stay off this route until mid summer when presumably the babies will have left. May 27, 2003
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
  5.10+
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
  5.10+
Bryson - On the FA it sure felt like 11 hence the original rating. Piz found a hidden hold and new sequence to do the crux. Doing it with his beta it seemed much much easier, probably as hard as the previous semi-crux. Probably 10ish. May 14, 2003
10b seems like a sandbag to me, and I'm tall. Reaching the last hold before the anchors felt .11ish to me. May 14, 2003
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
It is possible to protect the direct start with a funky green Alien. This will at least keep you from tumbling down the ramp. Once on the ledge underneath the first bolt, you can get yellow TCU in the horizontal. Extend with runner to avoid crossload of biner. BTW there are quicklinks on the anchors, not chains. Dec 12, 2002
Chains are now on the anchors. Oct 31, 2002
10b for tall people.... 2 moves harder for mid 5 footers. The rock quality is much better than it appears. Jun 28, 2002
piz
piz  
Hey Darren,

It's 5.10b good fun and a nice line.

piz : ) May 29, 2002