The Middle Route
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Routes in Digital Tower
|Beta Sponge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Beyond The Firetower S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|C++ T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Digital Stiumlation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Fortran Corner S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Jesus H. Cranker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Middle Route, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|T-zilla, Rap Drilla S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Page Views:||42 total, 0/month|
|Shared By:||richard magill on Apr 30, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionFirst of all, this route probably deserves more than one star. However, due to the fact that the route starts in a band of choss, and the crux is in that same band of choss, I couldn't justify it. You will know you are doing the crux correctly if the holds don't break. Any other attempted sequence seems to result in broken holds.
I have seen a couple of climbers start this line and become frustrated with the rock and then quit and do a different line.
If you can get through this 8 foot band of choss, the climbing then turns into excellent 11+ moves up an overhanging wall on solid stone - very fun. It is definitely worth doing (after you have done all the other routes on Digital Tower first).
From the belay ledge (accessed by doing the first pitch of Beta Sponge - see that route description), the next route to right of the belay is Jesus H. Cranker. The next route right of that is The Middle Route.
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