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Routes in Oceanic Wall

Belie Black S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Challenges of Leisure aka Wake of the Flood S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chocolate Nut Factory T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Creature from the Black Lagoon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deep, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dream Come True S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dreamed Up V9-10 7C+
Encore S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In Your Dreams S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leviathan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mud Shark S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pla Pwy (Sick Fish) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pound Town S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poundcakes T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sargasso Sea S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shiek Yer Bouti S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shiny Toys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twistin' By The Pool T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unknown right of Shiny Toys S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Jim Redo. FFA: Bob Horan with Jim Ghiselli, Spring 1999
Page Views: 4,713 total, 25/month
Shared By: Jim Redo on Apr 22, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is 13 bolts long, has a slab crux, has really small holds. Don't do it in the sun. It is good climbing.

Protection

This was previously known as "Wake Of The Flood" but was renamed. It was an abandoned project. It is 13 bolts long! It has a slab crux, but the route overall does not really climb like a slab. Killer, go do it.

Location

The route is just right of Sargasso Sea.
bhoran
Boulder, CO
bhoran   Boulder, CO
FFA: Bob Horan with Jim Ghiselli, spring 1999. I originally bolted this line in 1997 and left as a project, having done all but one move at the time. I called it Wake of the Flood. I returned several times and finally redpointed it in '99.
FA Bob Horan 97, FFA Bob Horan, Jim Gheselli 99
Wake of the Flood. !!!!! Dec 14, 2016
Pinklebear
  5.13a
Pinklebear  
  5.13a
Classic thin-face climbing, bullet rock, good mini-rests to get your shit together between cruxes. Love this route; Dream Canyon mega-classic.

The crux seems to have many "bad" options and only one "good" option for people of different heights. At 5'6" with a +2 ape index, I had the good clipping hold with the right, thin gaston just under the bolt with the left. Build the left foot in a white dish/smear, right foot high on the edge out right, rock over, and mantel/fire for the good crimp up and right. Worked really well! Oct 18, 2014
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.13b
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.13b
I really want to give this route 3 or 4 stars, but the crux is just too unpleasant to do so. The rest of the climb features super fun 5.11 climbing down low and pleasant 5.10 climbing up high with maybe a bit of 5.12 here and there. Moreover the route has interesting technical sequences on great stone. In fact, I think that if you are reasonably tall that even the crux move is probably pretty fun. When I use the lower foot that Dan Levinson mentions, I can pretty easily back into and out of the crux sequence body position needed to grab the upper right hand crimp; unfortunately, when I use this lower foot I come up about 3 inches short of the crux right hand crimp. Thus I need to use the higher foot edge, which because of its increased height, makes the move quite a bit more strenuous and unpleasant (I really need to crank hard on the sharp left hand crimp...ouch). In short, I think this is probably a great 3-4 star route if you have a good ape index or are tall, but the route probably becomes unpleasant and pretty damn hard if you are shorter. Thus because I am not tall or short, I split the difference and called it 2 stars and 13b (though probably not on the "solid" end of 'b' for me). Oct 10, 2012
Travis Blair
  5.13a
Travis Blair  
  5.13a
I agree with everyone's comments, a one move wonder, but the rest of the route is stellar, four star, 5.12 climbing! The crux is hard enough to set the grade at solid 13a but no harder, in my opinion, and since all the clips and moves are super safe, this is a perfect project for your first 5.13 - it was mine!! Oct 31, 2011
Joe Collins  
 
Without question a one-move wonder. Excluding the crux, good low-5.12 climbing. Apr 7, 2007
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
Match on obvious crimp, high-step right foot to pebble or small edge above pebble, rock onto right foot and reach up and slightly right to stick small crimp with your right hand (crux) -- left foot to starting crimp, left hand to jug (horizontal crack). Jun 19, 2006
Great route, at least what parts I could climb... Does anyone have some beta for the crux section (directly above the bolt with the bail-rings on it)? I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks. Jun 18, 2006
This line looks so great, but I can't climb 13b. Not to worry, though, even though Jim put the route up at 13b (and what could Jim Redo possibly know about these things?), and it's gone from 12c, to 12b, to 12a in the peanut gallery. I had hope there for a few weeks that I'd be able to get on this route once it hit the low 11 range....

Alas, my hopes were dashed when Jim corrected the situation. I'm still hoping though! Maybe someone should rename this route "The Dow of Difficulty".

kreighton, (levity, just for levity) May 6, 2003
Jim Redo  
 
Cool I'm glad you found a sequence for the masses. Tell everyone you know who climbs 12a to go do it and let me know what they think A.C. I hope they like the route. On hindsight I only think it's 13a. But I wasn't smart enough to find the 12a way to do it.. Oh well. Oct 1, 2002
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Jim Redo's on the Web! Apr 30, 2002