Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Eagle Has Landed

5.12d, Sport,  Avg: 2.5 from 13 votes
FA: Kevin Wilson, June, 1987. Bob D'Antonio?
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Dark Side

Description

Climb the route to the right of Two Hearts off a large, detached flake and up a short bulging face. Tackle the height-dependent crux right after clipping the first bolt. This probably goes around 5.12c or so for someone tall enough to reach through to key pocket with their feet on the detached flake (perhaps 6'2+"). I feel the grade for anyone who must work their feet up first is 13a. After the crux move, I doubt the climb is harder than 5.12a/b or so, with fun moves on pockets that get progressively bigger as one gets closer to the anchors.

Essentially, this is a one move wonder, so despite interesting moves, good rock, and position, I only consider it worth one and a half stars.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt chain anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

[Hide Photo] untitled
A view from the base.
[Hide Photo] A view from the base.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
[Hide Comment] On the Shelf Road scale it's worth two, if for no other reason than that it's harder than 12b. Plus I think the boulder problem is actually pretty good. Apr 29, 2002
slim

  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Ummm, you would literally have to be 9 feet tall to grab the pocket with your feet on the flake. I would think being short would be better in terms of not being so coiled up on the feet. Mar 15, 2016
A C
Your moms house
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] I'm 6' and had a really hard time even getting to the first bolt without a stick clip. The climbing though is sharp and savage but lets up quite nicely after the haftway point. May 22, 2018
Midori Wilson
[Hide Comment] This route was actually first climbed by Kevin Wilson from Canada around the beginning of June in 1987. It was reported (and written down in the ascent log) at the local climbing store (no idea on the name of the store). Dale Goddard had attempted the route and felt it was .13a, and the Wilson twins, having no idea about what to grade it, just went with Dale's suggestion. In retrospect, they felt it was probably more on the .12d side. Rob D. showed up a few weeks after the first ascent and was probably totally unaware that it had been climbed. Mar 1, 2019
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This route -- or the one move to the pocket above the ledge -- seemed pretty tough at 5'7". I had to get two bad underclings and toss for the pocket. The rest of it is very fun! Sep 11, 2023