PRINT: Rock Climb The Contest, Eldorado Canyon State Park

The Contest

5.11d, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 27 votes
FA: C. Ruckgaber, M. Brooks, 1988
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Hike up to Redgarden Wall as for C'est La Vie or Touch 'N' Go, starting from the old concrete slab just SW of the Whale's Tail. Make your way up to the cliff and walk left a short distance to an obvious bolted line on a flat but broken, right-facing wall that overhangs slightly. This climb is on an obvious arete more or less 1/2 way between C'est La Vie and Touch 'N' Go.

The line of bolts follows a line of sharp holds up and left to the arete, then left at the corner. These holds start large but get small, and are somewhat painful in spots. Follow said line of bolts up, then left to the arete, then around the edge and up to the top. It's kinda fun, but kinda short, and kinda sharp. Still, it should give even a strong climber a good pump.

From the top, a fixed station lies up and left.

Protection

5 draws plus 2 slings for the anchors up above.

Per Mark Rolofson: you can clip a bolt from No Lo Contendere with a long sling to make it 6 bolts & a pin.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Going for the prize on The Contest. <br>
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Photo: Bob Horan Collection.

Going for the prize on The Contest. Photo: Bob Horan Collection.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Nelson
Ouray, CO

Shorter climbers may want to stick clipt he first bolt, but taller ones can clip it while still standing on the ramp. Climbing through the crux is thrilling as you're leaving the bolt behind you with a bit of a pump and a fall would result in a good swinger if you've passed the crux. Good sports action for the spectators. Jan 3, 2003

Scott Bennett
Western North America

Agree that the first bolt would be a tough clip for shorter folks, but you could also place gear in the flake to protect the start. Quite pumpy, but I didn't find it too sharp or painful.
-Scott Oct 15, 2009

Mark Rolofson

5.12a

A great pitch that offers a good pump and quite stout for the grade.
I first redpointed the route in Fall, 1988. The first ascent recorded their ascent in a notebook at the Boulder Mountaineer. I remember that they rated the climb 5.11d/12a. I climbed the route numerous times between 1988 & 1993 and have occasionally revisited the route over the years since. Returning to it and comparing it to other Front Range sport climbs, I'd have to call it .12a. I have always felt it deserved that rating. The individual moves aren't that hard, but the continuous nature of the climbing with the crux coming at the end of the hard climbing, before reaching the arete, adds up to a 5.12a pump. Much harder than the nearby "La Boomerang".
As for the number of bolts, there are 6 protection bolts and one piton. The 5th bolt wasn't originally part of the route and is a bolt on "No Contest". This is the bolt on the left side of the arete. Clip it with a long sling & then clip out of once reaching the last bolt, to eliminate rope drag. Mar 26, 2013

Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO

It's been 19 years since I did this route, although I remember it being really high quality, in spite of its short length. It climbs much better than it looks. I'm 6', and I don't remember a problem clipping any of the bolts. Apr 6, 2013