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Rift Of Consciousness
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Continental Crag
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Bonsai T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Continental Breakfast T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Continental Drift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Continental Soldier T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cougar Bait T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fuzzy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Last, But Not Least T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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On-Slot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pangaea T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Plate Tectonics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Primal Scream T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rift Of Consciousness T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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River of Deceit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Welcome to Eldo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Whatever Pops Up Next T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Whymper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR |
| FA: | T. Bubb & J. Meir, 4/6/2002 |
| Page Views: | 575 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 5, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: 2020 Eagle Closure
Details
Raptor Closure (effective immediately)
Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail above the Crags Hotel Ruin and Continental Divide Overlook in order to protect golden eagles nesting on the south side of the canyon. The closure also includes the Continental Crag climbing area.
All activities, including rock climbing and hiking, are prohibited in these areas through July 15, 2020 or until further notice. This closure was authorized by Park Ranger D. Bergman.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and one year imprisonment.
from cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
As of March 13, 2018:
Per Mike McHugh: until July 15th, Continental Crag is closed for eagles.
Prior info:
A pair of nesting golden eagles have been spotted by Christian Nunes, wildlife biology tech, OSMP. Thus, the Continental Crag and the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch trail have been closed.
These are thought to be different birds than those who were nesting previously in the Diamond Head/SOBO Buttress area/ridge.
Please respect these closures.
Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail above the Crags Hotel Ruin and Continental Divide Overlook in order to protect golden eagles nesting on the south side of the canyon. The closure also includes the Continental Crag climbing area.
All activities, including rock climbing and hiking, are prohibited in these areas through July 15, 2020 or until further notice. This closure was authorized by Park Ranger D. Bergman.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and one year imprisonment.
from cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
As of March 13, 2018:
Per Mike McHugh: until July 15th, Continental Crag is closed for eagles.
Prior info:
A pair of nesting golden eagles have been spotted by Christian Nunes, wildlife biology tech, OSMP. Thus, the Continental Crag and the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch trail have been closed.
These are thought to be different birds than those who were nesting previously in the Diamond Head/SOBO Buttress area/ridge.
Please respect these closures.
Description
Locate the route Continental Drift. Just to the right is a good face with some splitter horizontals and reasonable face holds. Climb up the right hand edge of this face, and on the arete, staying as far right as possible. If and when necessary, move left to place additional pro in the horizontals.
Work up this face/bulging arete, *climbing on its right side*, so as to effectively take a path through 5 small roofs. If these are climbed from the left, the route is easier but perhaps 5.11- overall. If the arete is climbed from the right, this is a contrived powerfest, particularly to the pin. The last bulge/roof has a great rest under it. From that rest (a leg hooked around left and knee crooked on a big hold!), you can look up and see the huge move to the gut-busting undercling. From the undercling, you traverse left around the corner, past the pin on Continental Drift and continue to the top on that route.
Though contrived for difficulty (as there is easier climbing just around the corner, this is a great route. The name was inspired by the story of the F.A. thus "Rift Of Consciousness":
Due to some illness and a combination of medications, I was not 'at my best' on the FA. After leading though the final crux and clipping the pin, I headed into 5.8 territory -- but something was NOT right. I first felt nausea, so I down-climbed to a no-hands rest to puke. At the rest, however, things got more and more cloudy, and I realized I was ready to faint. I warned my partners about this and told them keep me on belay and wait. It was just the effects of illness and medication. I clipped into a piece -- and passed out. After 2 minutes of dangling on the overhanging arete, I woke up dazed, gathered myself a little, and then finished the lead. Jo followed without falls on the left-side of the arete.
It is possible that this route was over-rated due to my physical condition on the FA, but it sure felt as hard as area 11s. Please advise me if anyone else leads this on the right of the arete and wishes to downgrade it. I'm curious....
Work up this face/bulging arete, *climbing on its right side*, so as to effectively take a path through 5 small roofs. If these are climbed from the left, the route is easier but perhaps 5.11- overall. If the arete is climbed from the right, this is a contrived powerfest, particularly to the pin. The last bulge/roof has a great rest under it. From that rest (a leg hooked around left and knee crooked on a big hold!), you can look up and see the huge move to the gut-busting undercling. From the undercling, you traverse left around the corner, past the pin on Continental Drift and continue to the top on that route.
Though contrived for difficulty (as there is easier climbing just around the corner, this is a great route. The name was inspired by the story of the F.A. thus "Rift Of Consciousness":
Due to some illness and a combination of medications, I was not 'at my best' on the FA. After leading though the final crux and clipping the pin, I headed into 5.8 territory -- but something was NOT right. I first felt nausea, so I down-climbed to a no-hands rest to puke. At the rest, however, things got more and more cloudy, and I realized I was ready to faint. I warned my partners about this and told them keep me on belay and wait. It was just the effects of illness and medication. I clipped into a piece -- and passed out. After 2 minutes of dangling on the overhanging arete, I woke up dazed, gathered myself a little, and then finished the lead. Jo followed without falls on the left-side of the arete.
It is possible that this route was over-rated due to my physical condition on the FA, but it sure felt as hard as area 11s. Please advise me if anyone else leads this on the right of the arete and wishes to downgrade it. I'm curious....
Protection
The route takes a few cams and tricams. It is protected reasonably, but not well, and some of the gear is tricky to place, with most of it being in horizontal and diagonal cracks along the way. Take pieces 0.5"-3" The second crux merges with the route Continental Drift, and is protected by a pink and red tricam in a horizontal and from above by the pin in the route Continental Drift. Clipping the pin may be difficult from below the crux.
This route was led ground-up on gear, without previews and should never be retro-bolted. It is not unreasonably unsafe for an advanced leader.
This route was led ground-up on gear, without previews and should never be retro-bolted. It is not unreasonably unsafe for an advanced leader.
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