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Routes in Fourth Pinnacle

East Face Right T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
East Face/4th Pinnacle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Halls of Poison Ivy T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
West Side Bulge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 99 total, 1/month
Shared By: Warren Teissier on Apr 16, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route ascends the southern edge of the East face, just right of the Gully/Dihedral that splits the face.

P1. Start at on the low point of the rock and work up some easy but unprotected slabs for some 30 feet. From here traverse left towards a bulge and protect before moving left of the bulge and into a large gully. The gully's entrance is the crux and is water polished. Protection is available, but you need to be creative and look for it. Below and left of the entrance to the gully you will see at least a couple of bolts from an old aid line leading into the gully from the South. Climb up the gully on easier ground and belay when you run out the rope

P2. Exit the gully by overcoming a small roof with a 5 inch crack but great hand and footholds (5.2?). Work up and left and belay right of the small summit block (not pro at the summit).

Descent: downclimb a steep and exciting crack system to the west (5.0) for some 40 feet.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

MAKB
Potrero Chico, MEX
 
MAKB   Potrero Chico, MEX  
 
I think you did the wrong downclimb Greg.... May 6, 2013
Greg Speer
Fort Collins, CO
Greg Speer   Fort Collins, CO
If one calls the downclimb a 5.0, then in my opinion this is a huge sandbag. "Exciting" is putting it mildly. I would venture to say that if one were to climb up the downclimb it would be 5.4, 5.3 at the least. There is serious fall risk (as in death) on this downclimb especially if one had to hurry due inclement weather or in darkness. It is a dangerous disservice to other, especially less experienced, climbers to indicate otherwise. It would be easy for the less experienced to find themselves in a fix after ascending one of the 5.2 routes not knowing what the downclimb is like. We did it belaying one another with a few pieces of protection a couple of days ago. My partner, who has been climbing for 35 years, agreed with my assessment. Apr 7, 2010
George is right, you can lead the route in one pitch with a 50m rope, but your second will be required to simulclimb some 30 feet to allow you to reach the belay spot. Apr 22, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This route can be led in one pitch with a 50m rope, although you have to be a little careful to keep rope drag down. Apr 21, 2002