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Routes in Tiny Tower

East Face/Tiny Tower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Crack Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
West Ridge T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Gerry Roach
Page Views: 647 total, 3/month
Shared By: Warren Teissier on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

From the base of the East face you will notice a large fin of rock about 2/3 of the way up. This fin forms a right-facing dihedral. The route climbs up the East face slabs slightly left and turns right under the fin and follows the dihedral.

P-1 Start at the low point of the rock or slightly North of it. Work your way up and left on somewhat unprotected rock. I placed 3 pieces for the whole pitch. The climbing is easy but punctuated by some 5.4 moves. Once under the fin move right and enter the dihedral. About half way up set up a belay at a stump/bush

P-2 Exit the dihedral to the South via one of two weaknesses. The lower weakness provides an easier exit but puts you on a steep 5.7 slab with no pro for about 15-20 feet. The upper weakness is harder to surmount (5.6) but puts you on easier terrain. Once on the slab work you way up towards a 2 foot wide crack and reach the summit after exiting left from the crack. Belay some 15 feet shy of the summit at a horizontal crack (no pro at the summit)

Descent - Retrace you steps North (right) on the horizontal crack until you reach a broken area and exit West. scramble down 30 feet of fourth class to the West side of the Tiny Tower - Climb the West ridge for a complete outing.

Protection

Standard Flatiron rack.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.6
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.6
The prickly evergreen bushes Rossiter refers to as the cluster of small junipers are really a detractor for this route. I didn't enjoy it that much. Jun 26, 2006
Thought I better add that twice a watermelon size chunk came off while on this. This section of the Flatiron formation above and below even has some unnamed crags. Aside from the relative remoteness it may be the lack of decent rock. Jun 12, 2004
Pleasant for remoteness, poor for the sport of rock climbing. Loose and uninteresting. Jun 12, 2004
The exit from the dihedral at 5.6 is the weakness just above the obvious belay at the bush. The 5.7 way is at the same height or slightly below this belay. The top out from the dihedral is quite crumbly (we realized and backed down). Fun route- good place to go with dogs. Oct 7, 2003