5.8-,
Sport, 115 ft (35 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 36
votes
FA: unknown
Colorado
> S Platte
> Elevenmile Canyon
> Arch Rock
These three bolted routes are started at the same location as
Staicase and go up the face to the right of
Staircase. None of my guidebooks have them listed, and they are to fun not to be on this website, so if anyone knows who put them up, please let me know so I can correct the names.
Follow any one of the three well bolted routes to a pair of anchors with quicklinks attached directly below the overhang (you can not see them until you are right on them). The routes are pretty consistent 5.8- but the top two bolts are pretty well spaced out and a 1.5 tricam fits perfectly into the rock on the right two routes.
The leftmost route, closest to
Staircase, has a bit of distance up to the anchors from the last bolt without anywhere to put pro, but it is solid rock. The hardest moves on all three routes seemed to come within the first two bolts. There are only two anchors for the three lines and the routes themselves are a combination of face climbing and smearing.
It is important to note that these three climbs are all over 100 feet long, so two ropes are needed to rap off or if you want to set up a toprope.
Quickdraws and a 1.5 tricam for the right two routes.
Also, the 2 routes on the right have 6 bolts each and are well-spaced and plenty safe. I didn't see any need for passive gear.
The leftmost route is listed in the Colorado book as a 3-pitch route. The CO book says it has 5 bolts, but it has more...not sure exactly how many. Oct 23, 2002
denver, co
Actually, the two rightmost routes (of the three bolted slab routes immediately right of Staircase and immediately left of Hollow Flake) can be done as "sport climbs" with a 60m rope. I've climbed them both several times this way. In fact, I just had an outing with a bunch of beginners and we set up a toprope on the two rightmost routes. They share the same set of anchors, whereas the leftmost bolted route (3-pitch 5.9), goes to a different set of anchors that is higher up. This 5.9 route needs two 60m ropes to reach the ground. Apr 28, 2003
Colorado Springs, CO
Durango, CO
Colorado Springs, CO
Denver, CO
Arvada, CO
The first bolt on "Waiting on a Resolution" may be the crux and is quite far off the deck (Ben recommends a stick clip to avoid a potential broken ankle; I clipped it from the left and then restarted).
I agree that reaching the anchor on Kansas Honey was a bit too runout for my comfort level, and I was glad to put a cam in under the flake below the anchor. I was also glad to have a 70m rope for lowering / rapping from these three routes. Aug 24, 2013
Golden, CO
It definitely requires a 70m - we just made it on stretch with our 70m. The information posted under the Kansas Honey description on this page is correct. Aug 31, 2014