5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Ed Webster, Gene Ellis, 6/90|
|Page Views:||464 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Joe Keyser on Apr 13, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
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This is on Upper Etive Slabs (see Just Another Face Climb (JAFC) for approach info).
Take a steep line up crimps past 2 bolts just right of JAFC (crux) located just behind a dead tree. After the 2 bolts, it slabs out for about 100 feet to a tree in a scoop, belay at the tree.
P2. From here, you see a right-angling (almost horizontal) 5.9 crack. Climb above this and slightly left to a bolt, and clear the roof on some really lousy loose crimpers. Then angle to the right above the roof on the slab (neither the leader, or 2nd would probably want to fall over the roof). I followed this, and I gave it an S rating, since I feel it deserves it (runout). I don't remember if the book has it that way? This 2nd pitch might also be intended as a completely different route, but it was the logical finish to pitch one.
Descent: you could walk off, or, downclimb to the climber's left (5.1 or 2??), and pick up a double rope rap from a bolted anchor about 100 feet down from the top. This is a nice climb, but it needs some cleaning, or more mileage....