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Routes in The Mission Wall

Behind The Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Billy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Billy the Kid S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Challenger S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eye of the Beholder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garrett's Revenge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gneiss Route S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ground Control to Gumby One S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's Not You, It's Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ride The Snake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rocketman S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Three Points of Contact S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wild Child S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Rob Pizem, 2000
Page Views: 165 total · 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The obvious quartzite dike angling right from the ground has a line running up its mid section. Not a great line, but it does sport some interesting moves. The climbing seems to jog back and forth across the dike vis long reaches to polished surfaces. The rock is still very friable and the surface tends to shed even two years later. The first clip comes off a very dubious and jagged block and seemed like a very unfriendly clip. Use the stick. Acceptable, not great.

Protection

Half a dozen draws and a rope.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11a/b
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11a/b
Probably a little easier than it is rated. There is some crumbly rock but the climbing is fun. Sep 1, 2009
Mark Roth
Boulder
  5.11a
Mark Roth   Boulder
  5.11a
The 2nd to last clip cross loads the biner. It would be easy to fall here, too. It was exciting, I thought I might get to break a biner for the first time. I didn't fall, oh well, maybe next time.... Sep 1, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Dave. sounds like what you were on was P1 of Purnell's route, "Gneiss Route". This is the first route to the right of Ride the Snake... and just left of Pizem's "Billy". Was the wad of webbing you were talking about on two old bolts and one new bolt?

Challenger (short, handful of clips) climbs the pegmatite dike further right about 200 feet. (Between Wild Child and GCG1) --- For Ref, Floorshow and Behind the Sun are the routes furthest right on the wall...

I am working on a complete topo of Mission Wall, and will submit it when I am done. This will hopefully clear up some confusion on this wall...

Darren May 12, 2005
Dave
5.11b
Dave  
5.11b
Great [route], we were up there yesterday after it rained and this route was completely dry. A bit long, but well protected. There is a big piece of webbing up top that we reinforced with a couple shoulder slings. With a 50m rope you can rap down twice starting from this belay. Make your way left to the 1st belay ledge of ride the snake. And if you want do the second pitch of ride the snake, might as well right? The tyrolean is in [great] shape and there are two pulley's waiting for who ever wants to have some fun on these routes. Bring a small locking biner. May 12, 2005
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Piz,

Thanks for checking in!! I'll get all of the fixes logged in sometime this evening. Apr 10, 2002
piz
piz  
Hey [Richard], thanks again for getting these routes on the page. This one isn't the best line in the canyon, but once you know the moves and the clips, it's a pretty good pumpy warm up. The rock is varied to say the least, but all the clipping holds are jugs. I called this one Challenger. Rob Pizem Apr 10, 2002

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