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Routes in Etive Slabs

Greenville Avenue T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
JAFC (Just Another Face Climb) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Joyride S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Optical Illusion T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport
FA: Not sure?
Page Views: 469 total · 2/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Apr 6, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Private Land Details

Description

This route is on the Upper Etive Slabs near Sphinx Rock. To find, exit 285 at Pine Junction, and drive about five miles towards the town of Pine. After about 5 miles, or about 1/2 mile before Pine, you will see these slabs behind you, on your left. They sit up on the hill behind some possibly private property?? Park before the crag on the right (north) side of the road, and follow a water drainage up to the left side of the crag. You can find this drainage towards the left side of where the crag lies further up the hill. I believe that this approach eliminates any trespassing since we did not see any signs!

The Upper Etive Slabs offer some great run-out slab climbing, and a couple of cracks. Don't expect the 5.7's here to be cake walks! JAFC (Just Another Face Climb) is located about half way in the middle of the crag. Locate a bolt anchor with blue webbing material about 120-130 feet up in the middle of a broad slab. About 4 different climbs head towards these anchors, or could head towrds them. JAFC is located with a single bolt in a scoop about 15-20 feet up. The crux is a bouldery start on crimps, and heads up the run out slab above passing a piton that cant be seen from the ground. Excellent moves, on great little granite edges and smears. My suggestion would be to just head up to the crag, and pick a line that you wont fall off of. Great secluded area with nice stone! Have fun!

Protection

Two bolts, and an old piton. (3? draws)

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