Type: Sport
FA: Peter Hubbel, 1984
Page Views: 1,081 total · 4/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Apr 6, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Warning Access Issue: Private Land DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route is on the Upper Etive Slabs near Sphinx Rock. To find, exit US 285 at Pine Junction, and drive about five miles towards the town of Pine. After about 5 miles, or about 1/2 mile before Pine, you will see these slabs behind you, on your left. They sit up on the hill behind some possibly private property? Park before the crag on the right (north) side of the road, and follow a water drainage up to the left side of the crag. You can find this drainage towards the left side of where the crag lies further up the hill. I believe that this approach eliminates any trespassing, since we did not see any signs!

The Upper Etive Slabs offer some great runout slab climbing and a couple of cracks. Don't expect the 5.7s here to be cake walks! JAFC (Just Another Face Climb) is located about halfway in the middle of the crag. Locate a bolt anchor with blue webbing material about 120-130 feet up in the middle of a broad slab. About 4 different climbs head towards these anchors, or could head towards them. JAFC is located with a single bolt in a scoop about 15-20 feet up. The crux is a bouldery start on crimps and heads up the runout slab above passing a piton that can't be seen from the ground. This has excellent moves on great little granite edges and smears. My suggestion would be to just head up to the crag, and pick a line that you won't fall off of. This is a great, secluded area with nice stone! Have fun!

Protection Suggest change

Two bolts and an old piton (3? draws).

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