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Lazy Squaw Spire
Avg: 2.1 from 15
FA: Mark Pell, Jeff Williams, 1994
> Golden Gate Can…
> Lazy Squaw Spire
Access Issue: State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required.
Golden Gate Canyon is a State Park and a $7 (2010) fee is required for entrance. Self serve kiosks exist throughout the park. Annual passes can be purchased for $60.
This is an intriguing, 80-foot, twisted, little, granite spire that invites you to check it out as you drive around the upper parts of Golden Gate Canyon SP. It seems fairly unique in Colorado in my wanderings. Done a long time ago based upon the ancient bolt on top. This is the obvious line, but there are others if you linger. From Panorama Point, continue on the dirt road to the Lazy Squaw Ranch. Find this obvious spire on the hill behind the Ranch. Get a bearing. Hike up through a forest 20-25 minutes.
This is the path of least resistance:
Start on what seemed to be the SW face. Follow a line of 3 bolts up a face (crux), angle right and curl around to the SE face up easy, broken rock, pass an ancient bolt, and find yourself on top.
Rap 80 feet from a fixed anchor. Because this anchor is basically centered on top, the rope pull can require a bit of a pull.
Per Greg Barnes: with the new rap anchor going directly down the route on the southwest side, it's a 95' rap.
You can extend your day with a wander (bushwhack) left to the second buttress of Mt. Thoridin as we did that day.
We used a blue Alien, small wire, #2 Friend, another Alien, 3 QDs, 1 longer sling, and 50m rope.
Another reminder: figure out legal parking before you head up to do this climb.
[Hide Photo] Anchor bolts, old and new. The old bolts are drop-ins of two different sizes and eras - the small one is probably 1960s or early '70s, and the one with the Mammut hanger is probably early 80s. Note…
[Hide Photo] The pro bolts were also drop-in bolts with good stainless hangers, but this is how long the bolts were!
[Hide Photo] The first pro bolt after replacement. Again it was a drop-in bolt where the sleeve could not be removed, so the old hole was patched.
[Hide Photo] The old bolt vs a new bolt. The sleeve of the drop-in remained in the rock. Yes, that's how long the bolt is - it is not broken!
[Hide Photo] New summit anchor. You can see where the old anchor was if you carefully look on the far left for some rust staining.
[Hide Photo] Summit anchor before replacement. Both of these are drop-in bolts (aka self-drills), although you can't tell until unscrewing (they could be other types). Note that the bolts are way too close toge…
[Hide Photo] At the first bolt. The easiest way to here is to step left onto that block my right foot is on from the right side of the photo. If you place gear to the right of that block, you will have horrible…
[Hide Photo] Nice big shot of the route taken March, 22, 2012 around 6 pm. You can see all 3 bolts.