Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: Mark Pell, Jeff Williams, 1994
Page Views: 3,448 total · 15/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: State Park - Fee Required. Details

Description

This is an intriguing, 80-foot, twisted, little, granite spire that invites you to check it out as you drive around the upper parts of Golden Gate Canyon SP. It seems fairly unique in Colorado in my wanderings. Done a long time ago based upon the ancient bolt on top. This is the obvious line, but there are others if you linger. From Panorama Point, continue on the dirt road to the Lazy Squaw Ranch. Find this obvious spire on the hill behind the Ranch. Get a bearing. Hike up through a forest 20-25 minutes.

This is the path of least resistance:

Start on what seemed to be the SW face. Follow a line of 3 bolts up a face (crux), angle right and curl around to the SE face up easy, broken rock, pass an ancient bolt, and find yourself on top.

Rap 80 feet from a fixed anchor. Because this anchor is basically centered on top, the rope pull can require a bit of a pull.

Per Greg Barnes: with the new rap anchor going directly down the route on the southwest side, it's a 95' rap.

You can extend your day with a wander (bushwhack) left to the second buttress of Mt. Thoridin as we did that day.

Protection

We used a blue Alien, small wire, #2 Friend, another Alien, 3 QDs, 1 longer sling, and 50m rope.

Parking

Another reminder: figure out legal parking before you head up to do this climb.

Photos