Empire of the Goats
Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
Routes in Goat Rock
|BaaaD To The Bone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Bad, Bad Goat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Capra Diem S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Clan Of The Goatmen S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Empire of the Goats S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Eric The Goat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Goat Arete S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Goat Goes Up, Must Come Down S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Goats in the Hood S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Goats on the Fringe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|High Flying Goats S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|No Goats, No Glory S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Olympic Free Style Goat Toss S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Ram T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Sacrificial Goat S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Satyr S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Solitary Goat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Supergoat S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 2 pitches|
|FA:||P1, RMWright, 2001 P2, Mark Tarrant, 2008|
|Page Views:||942 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Richard M. Wright on Mar 30, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionAfter a long hiatus, Mark Tarrant and I returned to Empire of the Goats to finally suss out P2. This is a real lesson in what it means to have the right partners. We did some rearranging of the bolts that have made the climb much better.
P1 remains largely as it was, a decent 5.11 that has cleaned up nicely. The P1 belay was shifted entirely to what had been a lower perch.
P2 is may be the best pitch on this crag altogether. It checks in at 5.12b/c, but has some perplexing solutions that would make the on-sight seem more difficult. The initial difficulties moving through the face of the big dihedral have been brought down to the strenuous 5.11 domain. The first crux, just below the final headwall, is still burly with very tricky footwork, pretty much all on smears. A final crux awaits just before the anchors, and this may be more of a pump crux than a technical crux.
Kudos to Mark for holding it together for a red point burn early in May, 2008.
ProtectionA dozen draws and a 70 meter rope. P1 runs up on half a dozen clips, while P2 needs a dozen and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. A 70 meter rope will touch ground comfortably from the top of P2. The older notes indicated that a 60 meter rope would just touch ground from the top of P2, and this is true, but there is very little room for error - tie the ends of the rope. It is difficult to get back into the top of P1 if rapping from the top of P2, you are just too far out to get back in.
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