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Routes in Goat Rock

BaaaD To The Bone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bad, Bad Goat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Capra Diem S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clan Of The Goatmen S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Empire of the Goats S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Eric The Goat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goat Arete S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Goat Goes Up, Must Come Down S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goats in the Hood S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Goats on the Fringe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Flying Goats S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Goats, No Glory S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Olympic Free Style Goat Toss S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ram T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sacrificial Goat S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Satyr S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Solitary Goat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Supergoat S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: P1, RMWright, 2001 P2, Mark Tarrant, 2008
Page Views: 942 total, 5/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 30, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

After a long hiatus, Mark Tarrant and I returned to Empire of the Goats to finally suss out P2. This is a real lesson in what it means to have the right partners. We did some rearranging of the bolts that have made the climb much better.

P1 remains largely as it was, a decent 5.11 that has cleaned up nicely. The P1 belay was shifted entirely to what had been a lower perch.

P2 is may be the best pitch on this crag altogether. It checks in at 5.12b/c, but has some perplexing solutions that would make the on-sight seem more difficult. The initial difficulties moving through the face of the big dihedral have been brought down to the strenuous 5.11 domain. The first crux, just below the final headwall, is still burly with very tricky footwork, pretty much all on smears. A final crux awaits just before the anchors, and this may be more of a pump crux than a technical crux.

Kudos to Mark for holding it together for a red point burn early in May, 2008.

Protection

A dozen draws and a 70 meter rope. P1 runs up on half a dozen clips, while P2 needs a dozen and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. A 70 meter rope will touch ground comfortably from the top of P2. The older notes indicated that a 60 meter rope would just touch ground from the top of P2, and this is true, but there is very little room for error - tie the ends of the rope. It is difficult to get back into the top of P1 if rapping from the top of P2, you are just too far out to get back in.

Photos

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Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
This climb starts just right of the obvious, left-leaning corner of Ram, where the trail meets the lower tier. P1 is pretty good and is maybe hard 10 with medium hard moves at the bottom and top and a reachy crux in the middle.

The anchors at the top of P1 are set way back, so you may want to rap rather than lower. Sep 14, 2010
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Mark Tarrant and I returned to this route on May 4, 2008 to finally suss out the second pitch. The route description was revised. The way it is set up now makes for a very good climb coming in at roughly 5.12b/c. It is arguably the best route on the crag and has cleaned up very well. It's a pumpy, technical climb and well worth the effort to solve. May 5, 2008
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.12b
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  5.12b
In the beta picture with power lines, this is route #2. The first pitch is fun and only about 5.10c. Sep 6, 2006
Don't dump all of the junk on the ledge off on your belayer. Jul 26, 2004
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
I went back to run the second pitch again on 8/24/02 and choked on the crux clip. So, this clip was adjusted upward and a new bolt was added just before the crux dyno. It's still difficult to clip, powerful, but nothing so creepy as before. E.D. I have your biner from this point. Also in the retro game. We had solved the sequence coming off the belay as originally bolted, but this sequence had picked up some dissatisfied responses. So here too, the initial clip was lowered and a new bolt added that can be clipped before reaching the arete. This section now has three clips getting to the arete. It seems a bit too comfy for my own taste but will make things more reasonable for a first run. Still difficult up top. Aug 29, 2002