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Routes in The Main Pinecliffe Crag

Frenzy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hardman Jr. S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Sandwich T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Longhaired Freaky People T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nocturnal Leg Muscle Cramp S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pica S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vanderslice, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 145 total, 1/month
Shared By: William Prehm on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Area Closed Details

Description

This is a fun climb with some interesting moves. Make your way to the Pinecliffe area and move around right along the base past the bolted routes. You will come across a corner crack system with a 10' to 15' roof. Start up the crack (5.9) and continue up the corner until you hit the roof. Traverse out left (5.10a) and make a balanced move to the ledge and a fixed anchor. Entire route is easily protected and a #3 or #3.5 Camalot works well to protect the traverse. Try this... you can get an interesting no hands rest under the roof by pressing your head against an overhanging section.

Protection

Standard rack to 4".

Photos

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An alternative finish: instead of going to the chains, head straight up the off width. At the top, you can traverse R to the bolted anchors on top of Crescent Moon and rap easily with a 60m. Also, the head-jam-rest is a must move. Fun route. Aug 15, 2003