PRINT: Rock Climb Lucky Strikes, Boulder Canyon

Lucky Strikes

5.12b, Sport,

Avg: 3.1 from 168 votes
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, Moe Hershoff, 2001
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Lower Dream Canyon > Plotinus Wall > Left Side

Access Issue: Closure - now open Details

From Rick Vermeil: they have finished construction on the Boulder Falls project, and it has been open to tourists and climbers for at least a couple years now. They have legitimized the climber access trail with signage to go up and over the barriers they created to prevent erosion on the west side of the canyon.

Previously: from the Flatirons Climbing Council: as of February 2018 per OSMP Dream Canyon - Boulder Falls is closed to the climbing community. More specifically, contractors will begin mobilizing equipment into Boulder Falls next week (February 12, 2018). They plan to chopper everything in from Sugarloaf Dr. No parking will be available at the Boulder Falls pullout for the duration for the project, as it will be the staging area for equipment and materials. Boulder Falls will be closed 7 days a week until construction is complete (estimated date is June), and that Dream Canyon and nearby crags by way of Boulder Falls will not be accessible to the public.

Access Issue: Access now open Details

From Rick Vermeil: they have finished construction on the Boulder Falls project, and it has been open to tourists and climbers for at least a couple years now. They have legitimized the climber access trail with signage to go up and over the barriers they created to prevent erosion on the west side of the canyon.

The Boulder Falls Trail was be closed to the public since the 2013 floods for a few years. Accessing the climbing areas in Lower Dream Canyon (Plotinus Wall) from the Boulder Falls Trail was off limits. In addition, the slopes above the Boulder Falls Trail were closed to access.

Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the landowner. Previously, climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon were trespassing.

Fortunately, with great work and cooperation, this situation seems to have been resolved peacefully.

Per Dan Gozdz: I reached out to OSMP and received the following reply about access: yes, there is now a designated climbing access trail through Boulder Falls that follows the old footpath through the Keyhole. Enjoy!

Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) Details

FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!

2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.

USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.

From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….

W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.

Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.

K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.

K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:

Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.

“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”

Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.

“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.

After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.

The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.

It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.

For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.

From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.

See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.

Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…

Description

Just right of The Bobsled is Lucky Strikes, an overhanging technical route with several crux moves and great gear. Clip the first bolt off a ledge and make several hard cranks up a bulging wall. Follow a lines of bolts up a steep wall gaining a ledge and good rest. Make one more hard move off the ledge to the anchor.

Location

This is right of The Bobsled.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Plotinus Wall, left side.

Hanging a draw on the heinous 2nd clip.

From the start.

Art of Dreaming and nearby routes.

The Bobsled and Lucky Strikes.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado

This is another excellent pitch, varied and technical. However it needs a thorough going over, especially at the start, to tame some of the crumbly rock. Apr 29, 2002

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado

Hi Bob, Great work from you and your partners on these routes. I'm only jealous that I didn't get to equip that arete first. It looks really good. Next visit... Apr 30, 2002

Dan Levison
Boulder, CO

My favorite 5.12 on the Plotinus Wall. The crux is definitely clipping the second bolt after the powerful start. I was able to find a decent rest in the upper alcove below the ledge, and down low between the second and third bolt. I thought the route was generally pretty clean compared to the other routes on the wall. Thumbs Up overall! Aug 6, 2002

Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO

Two comments: First, Lucky Strikes gets my vote as the best line on the wall. It has interesting moves that utilize some very nice turns, ascends largely excellent rock, and has good continuity with a developing pump. Second, we found the nut on the first clip to be completely loose (2/16/03), in fact I took it off by hand. Knowing how much Bob and Vaino have done, I reckon that this is not a case of poor craftmanship. Here is how this nut loosened up. The crux climbing on Lucky Strikes comes between bolts one and two and as a result bolt one receives a lot of hangs and therefore a lot of torque. Since a wedge bolt has the nut on the outside, unlike a Rawl, rotational torque on the hanger will tend to unwind the nut if the rotation is clockwise. In this case one is moving right for a jug and any pull on the hanger will be clockwise, as a result unwanted torque on the hanger will unwind the nut. Its hard to beat if clips one and two receive all of the dogging. Stick clipping bolt two can help, and may be advised for the near future. Cementing the nut can help, as can a lock-washer. My personal preference is to use a Rawl, where, although some loosening may still arise, it won't dissemble the whole unit. This not a Tom Ridge panic button just a cautionary note for a sweet line. By the way, it may be a good recommendation to drop in some Rawl bolts on the new line going in to the left of Lucky Strikes, although the crux on this route will be higher on the wall - just something to think about. Feb 16, 2003

David A. Turner
Colorado

5.12-

Just Wondering: Does a prior-knowledge, no-falls, first go, draws pre-hung, rope clipped through the second draw, ascent count as "getting" this route? If it counts, where in the continuum of style does it fall? Does said style have a name, like red-point, pink-point, brown-point, beta flash, as some possible choices? Great route; 12a. Jul 2, 2003

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado

I would say that all the aforementioned advantages would certainly make the route easier than 12b if that's what you're asking. If it qualifies as "getting" the route, that is a question of a deeper, more philosophical nature. What does getting a route mean to you? Jul 2, 2003

David A. Turner
Colorado

5.12-

Peter: Which one of the foregoing advantages that I listed (e.g. beta, prehung draws, etc.) do you think turned the route from a 12b into a 12a? Would that be true for every route or only this one? In other words, does beta, or some other combination of advantages, always drop a route's grade? Are there exceptions, and if so, what are they? Just looking for opinions. Jul 8, 2003

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado

I've done this route at least half a dozen times, mostly with no-preclipping. By now it feels like mid 5.11, except for clipping the second bolt which is still pretty tenuous. Given the amount of space devoted to grading comments, I shouldn't add any more but I would like to say this. If you find a route easy you may be a better climber than you thought. I'm ready to downgrade everything in Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek along with everyone else but it seems kind of pointless. Some routes feel easier, some feel harder, all of them are challenging in different ways. Getting all wrapped up in a number masks that truth. Jul 10, 2003

Pamela Emanoil

Peter Beal wrote: If you find a route easy you may be a better climber than you thought.

If only it could be true! Just the other day, a notorious sandbagger friend said that he wouldn't describe himself as such (sandbagger, that is); he just puts people to the task because he thinks "they're more capable than their ability." Hmmm ... think about it. Yes, this was a drunken comment. Have you been drinking from the same bottle, Peter? Just kidding. However, I see similar logic, though different results. Climbing a route my friend recommends could get you into trouble, but at least you're kept honest. If you climb a soft route and send, no harm done? Well, I value my integrity, so I guess I feel a little cheap.

I do agree with Peter that grades aren't the end all be all, but they sure make for fun conversation/debate.

For the record, I haven't climbed this particular route and probably can't (darned ability gets me again!). I have climbed others at this cliff, however, and did agree with many (even those who put them up, apparently) that the grades need to come down a letter or two. Regardless, I had a blast on all the routes I climbed here. Fun moves and great position that's far enough from road traffic. Jul 11, 2003

David A. Turner
Colorado

5.12-

Peter: To go back to an earlier question you asked, I believe "getting" a route of this nature, as opposed to an aid route or an ice route for example, means no weighting of equipment on the way up. If that is the definition, then the route could be gotten in any manner of styles of ascent. Climbers have names for most of those styles, many of which I listed previously with the possible exception of "top rope". I think that with respect to the grade of a climb, that should be an objective number, unaffected by the style of the ascent. Without doubt, most if not all climbs feel easier with rehearsal. However, the holds remain the same whether the route is onsighted or not. I believe that this is why the style of the ascent is just as important as the grade number attached to it. A true onsight of Lucky Strikes would be a much more impressive achievement than mine, even though both ascentionists could claim they had gotten this route at 12a (or whatever the grade is).What's your opinion? Jul 14, 2003

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado

To go back to an earlier question you asked, I believe "getting" a route of this nature, as opposed to an aid route or an ice route for example, means no weighting of equipment on the way up. If that is the definition, then the route could be gotten in any manner of styles of ascent. Climbers have names for most of those styles, many of which I listed previously with the possible exception of "top rope". I think that, with respect to the grade of a climb, that should be an objective number, unaffected by the style of the ascent. Without doubt, most if not all climbs feel easier with rehearsal. However, the holds remain the same whether the route is onsighted or not. I believe that this is why the style of the ascent is just as important as the grade number attached to it. A true onsight of Lucky Strikes would be a much more impressive achievement than mine, even though both ascentionists could claim they had gotten this route at 12a (or whatever the grade is). What's your opinion?

I agree that the purpose of doing a free climb is not weighting the equipment and that any number of styles can be used to realize the achievement. The question is whether a number really reflects the achievement or indeed really holds any value at all except as a rough guide to the potential physical and mental demands of the route.

Your phrase "the holds remain the same" reflects the truth most of the time but how often have people said "a hold broke so it's harder" when no hold broke at all. The thing is that people change day to day, even hour to hour and their ability changes with it. That, combined with the sheer complexity of routes, means there is no such thing as an objective 12b grade. It's like saying a cloud looks like a dog. When I look at it, it may be a parrot. Is it the same cloud? What can we agree upon about it?

The same point applies to style. Yes, a graceful, naked solo onsight would be very impressive, more so than a typical hangfest culminating in a sketchy, draws in place, shakefest. But style ultimately remains a personal choice and as long as you're not altering the rock or affecting others with your choices, go for it. Paradoxically, this can result in conunundrums such as whether soloing routes (theoretically good style) with other parties on them is maybe not such good style. In the end however climbers who seek to standardize, codify, or regularize the experience are chasing an illusion. Yes, doing a "12b" onsight is more impressive to someone who is impressed by that sort of thing but I am impressed more by people who think and ask questions about the assumptions we all make about even such a trivial pursuit as climbing. So, thanks for making me think about this some more. Jul 15, 2003

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.12b

Full disclosure: I fell off at the crux on my first try, then hung at the top (easier, but pumped). Lucky Strikes is a really cool route. Good moves, tricky in spots, several cruxes, although none as hard as the bottom. Hard to on-sight because of the strenuous nature at the bottom and the caution used going up and checking the holds and figuring out the moves. Once you know the moves, they feel better/easier. I got thrashed trying to move with caution through the bottom.

Really nice line. Too bad it is not super-straight. Close to a 3* line though.

There are 12b's I can't even dog my way up... but then again, this route is really hard to get on-sight. It felt easier after finding the holds, but the difficulty is in reading the route, not just doing the moves, so give or take a little, the grade is probably about right. Jul 16, 2003

Stephan Greenway
Altmünster, Oberosterreich,…

I agree that this is certainly one of the best climbs on the crag! What a find! Clipping the second bolt is certainly the crux. Great movement...nice and pumpy! Sep 14, 2003

Anonymous Coward

(beta question following...don't look if you're an on-sight type)

Is the large crescent crimp up and right of the first bolt "on"? Going there, then back left to the second bolt, was really not that bad. All the holds are pretty incut. Of course, you don't think it's good, just looking at it, but I saw someone use it, so I tried it, and like-alot.

Oh, and the top is a little strange. The easy corner is so inviting! It's hard to avoid.

I say 11d, because it certainly wasn't harder than "James Brown's Wild Ride", which for some reason always sticks out as a benchmark 11d. Dec 8, 2003

D. Rivers

A good friend of mine, who regular on-sights to soild 5.12 and redpoints to 5.13, has a phrase for hard redpoints. In his mind it's all about "whittling the route down to 5.10." Redpoints are always substantially different from onsights, whether it goes after one or one hundred tries. Jan 29, 2004

Stephan Greenway
Altmünster, Oberosterreich,…

Hey D. Rivers that is a great way to put it! I agree. Your friend is right on. I have never been a strong onsight climber but I've always been able to "whittle" a route down until I can do it. I'm sure most of us have had the same experience: we work a route and when it finally goes think "man that felt like 5.11 (5.10 whatever)" I think I've read a lot of people downgrading routes after they have them so wired the can do laps on them. Its always been my opinion that the grade of a route is a subjective measure of a route's difficulty, onsight, on lead. Your friend says "whittle it down to 5.10. I've always said "beat it into submission" same idea. But beating it down doesn't change the grade does it?? Jan 30, 2004

Anonymous Coward

Obviously this is 5.12b, It's my onsight grade, and this was a perfect test. Nice route. Mar 21, 2004

Jimmie Redo
Boulder, Co

No hands knee bar at the roof up high. Full recovery. Nov 16, 2004

Thom Engelbach

5.12a

Sometimes it's hard to determine whether a hold is "on" or not. Try this simple rule, which works well in Boulder Canyon: When you are touching the hold, can you touch a bolt with your elbow or your knee? If so, the hold is "on" and you can proceed to use it with a clear conscience. Dec 19, 2004

Anonymous Coward

Good job, Young Doug. Pay no attention to the spineless downgrading. The route is 12b even when compared to Rifle routes at the same grade & even with the kneebar rest which is probably more taxing than making the 4 more moves to the slab. Sep 20, 2005

Steve Annecone
Boulder, CO

Excellent moves and really fun and sustained... Don't blow the second clip though or it would be quite possible to hit the ledge below. May 28, 2006

Thom Engelbach

5.12a

I clipped the second bolt and downclimbed to the ground, then went back up, stuck (struck?) the next move and finished the route. I thought I had flashed the route until another climber complimented me on my "nice try." Is downclimbing considered poor style these days? Nov 20, 2006

claytown
Boulder, CO

What a great climb! Crimpy and balancy and technical but not too hard. Just when you hit the sloping ledge and think it's over you step back left over the void for another fun move. Top notch!!! Mar 25, 2007

Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO

5.12b

I thought this route was pretty damn good from bottom to top... save for the last contrived 15 feet where it's easier to go right at the ledge into an easy corner system and then step back left using jugs to clip the last bolt and up climb to the anchor. I also thought the lower section was pretty difficult, but honestly clipping the 2nd bolt was not hard. The moves \after the 2nd bolt are hard! I think lock-off strength and precision footwork are a quality skill set to possess when climbing this route. Pretty spot on for the grade I thought. Feb 17, 2013

Mark Rolofson

5.12b

Since Fall 2002, I have climbed this route many times. I have always stick clipped the 2nd bolt. I would recommend this to most people trying this route. Blowing this clip would be a ledge fall & really impact the belayer. The crux is the overhanging start with powerful crimpy moves. Once you at the 3rd bolt, the climbing is sustained 5.11 with a second redpoint crux after the 4th bolt (.11d/12a). Gain the shelf & no hands rest at 8th bolt & it's over. There is an exciting runout 5.10 finish. Great route offering a powerful start followed by a good forearm pump. Mar 20, 2016

michalm

5.11+

Fun, steep route with very good holds. Clipping the 2nd bolt is the crux. The first bolt is uselessly low. It will not keep you off the ledge. The route is strangely bolted, in typical Bob D'Antonio style, with too many bolts in places the don't necessarily protect difficult moves above ledges. 3 stars for movement, but the bolting somewhat detracts from the climbing. This was pretty easy, albeit pumpy, to onsight with plenty of good rests and jugs. There is certainly not a single 5.12 move on the route, including the heinous 2nd clip. It is a V3 boulder problem into 5.11 climbing. Of course, you can always choose a more difficult sequence. The way I climbed the route, onsight, ground-up, 5.11+ could be overly generous. Compare this to any mid to hard 11 at Castle Rock, Eldo, or the Flatirons for a reality check. Worthwhile and top 3 on the wall after The Scientist and Lucid Dreaming. Jun 17, 2016

ScoJo
Boulder, CO

I stickclipped the second bolt, because I enjoy having ankles. Jan 22, 2017

Dan Raymond
Longmont, CO

The 1st bolt is 7 feet off the ground, and the 2nd bolt is 4 feet above that. How closely spaced do they need to be for people to consider a route "safe to lead"? Letting go with one hand to clip that 2nd bolt is the hardest move on the route. If you skipped the crux, did you really send it? Apr 3, 2022

Michael Underwood
Denver, CO

Excellent climb, though hard to read for the onsight. Don't pay any attention the goading and chiding regarding the second bolt; most people will probably want to stickclip, because although the second bolt is admittedly pretty close to the first, it really isn't a clip you can afford to blow. If you have plenty of endurance for 12b crux moves, you'll probably be fine to just clip it as you go, but if 12b is at all difficult for you, you'll be redlining during a potentially dangerous clip. Apr 3, 2024