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Routes in The Main Pinecliffe Crag

Frenzy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hardman Jr. S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Sandwich T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Longhaired Freaky People T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nocturnal Leg Muscle Cramp S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pica S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vanderslice, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: J. Loren & L. Schafer? Mark Pell, 1991?
Page Views: 591 total, 3/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Area Closed Details

Description

This is nice, short crack route on the left side of the main Pinecliffe crag.

Power up an inviting crack starting on the right edge of a small roof on the left side of the crag. It is stiff for a non-crack climber. 2 bolt anchor.

Rap the route 70 feet.

It was done on gear. The bolt was added later.

Protection

Standard rack, 50m rope.

Photos

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As far as I know, I got the first free ascent of this climb in 1991 and did it all clean as a trad lead, then added a bolt later to protect the bouldery start when this little cliff began to develop in the direction of sport climbing with work by a group of Boulder-based climbers including myself, Alvino Pon, Ryan Mills, and Hank Caylor. The last time I was there in 2002, the bolt hanger had been removed, possibly as a statement by others claiming the FA? That may well be a legit claim, so no prob if that's the case. If not, the fixture in the rock is a Rawl Self-Dril anchor that accepts a 3/8" x 1" grade 5 capscrew to attach the hanger, and I'd greatly appreciate it if a helpful local would screw on a new hanger. No need to torque beyond what's necessary to secure the hanger solidly, as this type of bolt does not rely on torque to hold. Whatever, once you get to the crack the pro is very good from wired nuts and 1-3" camming devices. Nice finger locks and hand jams, a good route to learn basic crack techniques on or just have fun if you're already a good crack climber. Mar 1, 2013