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Routes in The Main Pinecliffe Crag

Frenzy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hardman Jr. S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Sandwich T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Longhaired Freaky People T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nocturnal Leg Muscle Cramp S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pica S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vanderslice, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Ryan Mills & Mark Pell (aka Eddie Pain)
Page Views: 842 total, 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Area Closed Details

Description

This is a nice, short, sport route on the right side of the main Pinecliffe crag. This route starts above the ground. You can climb Blaster 11a, Frenzy 10a, or come from the top on Longhaired Freaky People.

Follow an arete with 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. There are thin moves that get stiffer near the top.

Rap the route to the rap anchor on Frenzy.

Protection

4 QDs, slings for the anchor, 60m rope.

Photos

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I put up this route working with Ryan in 1992, and the name comes from a condition resulting from electrolyte imbalance. Pinecliffe has so many good featured arete climbs, and this is definitely one to tick if you are a fan of this wonderful place. As mentioned, there are several possible approaches, but I recommend you belay the leader from the standing ledge at the base of the large open cleft, below and slightly right of the arete. We used clean gear for this, but there may be an anchor there now. It's a bit nervy and exposed getting to the first bolt, a balancy sequence that was originally protected by a fixed pin that disappeared in the mid-1990s. So don't be shy about placing some clean gear to make it safer to commit to bolt 1. Once you're clipped, the bolt protection up the remainder of the climb is good. As with all aretes, don't overlook lateral movement and sidepulls when straight up does not seem to be working. But once established, most of the action is on the right side of the arete and the last move is right up the prow. I also recommend the leader belay the second from a seated position next to the top anchor, then the party should rappel or walk off. Mar 1, 2013