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Routes in The Main Pinecliffe Crag

Frenzy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hardman Jr. S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Sandwich T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Longhaired Freaky People T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nocturnal Leg Muscle Cramp S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pica S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vanderslice, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Mark Pell (aka Eddie Pain) & Alvino Pon
Page Views: 116 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Area Closed Details

Description

This is a nice 100 foot mixed route on the right side of the main Pinecliffe crag.

Follow a face/arete with 5 bolts and some natural gear possibilities to a 2 bolt anchor. This goes right of a small roof near the start.

Rap the route or wander over the top to climb Nocturnal Leg Muscle Cramp.

Protection

5 QDs, 2 wires, slings for the anchor, 60m rope

Photos

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I installed and did the FA of this route, and the previous comment is true, it's weird! Some people like weird, and I know I do. The start and the upper part of the route just happen to be on the same rock and the line (hopefully) was bolted in a way that allows the two sections to connect as smoothly as possible on the lead as an integrated sport pitch, but frankly the bottom is just a way to get to the cool face traverse and arete finish on the upper half. THAT's what I really wanted to share with everyone. The lower section probably does hold the technical crux but not by much. The clean pro in the middle, at a stance under the overlap after slabbing up from the start section, should be slung long for good rope flow moving up onto the leftward face traverse and the steep arete finish. Some people skip this pro, but if you do, the move to clip bolt 3 is virtually unprotected. Be safe and place the gear - this also protects your second above the start. Balance and finesse are the keys to having an enjoyable time on this climb. Trust your feet and work all the angles with your hands. Mar 1, 2013
If this is the route we did the other day, which I think it is...the crux is soon after leaving the ground - sort of the moves clipping the first bolt (mental crux) and the next couple moves. Strangely bolted and weird. Last crux is after last bolt, and there is gear following the crux, but by the time you get somehwere you could place gear, the climbing is over. Jun 26, 2003