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Routes in The Sports Wall

Balkan Dirt Diving T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beginner Sports T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Changing Corners Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Generation Gap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Happiness of Pursuit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
My Generation S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Number 5 Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pet Semetary T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rufus' Roof Variation aka Climbing Sports T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtastic T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 83 ft
FA: pre-1972
Page Views: 2,880 total · 15/month
Shared By: Casey Bernal on Mar 25, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route climbs up to the obvious stem box / bombay chimney. Start beneath it on a slab and climb up and right to find a crack above a roof that leads up to the box. The bottom section of crack takes lots of pro but when you climb higher up you realize the whole block that you have gear in isn't too solid, but hopefully it will hold.

After the first initial section of crack, you have a handcrack for a couple moves to the base of the box. Place a good, small/medium nut and figure out the moves to get into the stem box. Place a large nut and step out right to the arete and climb easy ground to the top. You should be proficient in placing tricky nuts and TCUs, otherwise it might be somewhat risky.

It might be possible to set up a gear toprope, or use the chains to the left, but it seemed most reasonable to top out and belay above from gear, boulders or trees. Fun stuff. - Casey Bernal

Protection

Lots of nuts and TCUs. Up to a #2 cam.

Photos

From the ground to the anchors, this route is about 83 feet tall. My first lead of this route was in 1972, after leading the two easier climbs to the right. I'm sure all three had been done before. Dec 5, 2014
Dan S.
Boulder, CO
Dan S.   Boulder, CO
Climbed this route today, and anchors were at the top of the climb with rap rings (no chains). Anchors are not accessible from above unless you have some gusto to downclimb to them. Thanks to those replacing some of the bolts in this area. Apr 6, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
It looks like you can use the bolt anchors on Pet Semetary as an anchor. The bolts look fairly new. I used a tree and a big block for my anchor as I was top roping by myself and did not want to risk going to the bolts. It looks like they would be a good option if you were leading. Sep 23, 2013
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
That's lame.... Stealing anchors is bad mmmkay. May 27, 2013
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
Whoever stole my chains on the anchor I put on this route, I would love them back so I can cement them back to the anchor. If you feel like you need to disassemble an anchor to a route, you should stop climbing on fixed anchors and make your own anchor. May 27, 2013
This is a great climb. I led it years ago when I first started climbing, got tunnel vision at the bottom and fell on gear, it held very nicely. I did fall on a stopper, they set nicely and in my experience were bomber. Anyone who is comfortable placing gear should feel comfortable doing this climb. Feb 21, 2009
Interesting route... I wasn't totally psyched about my placements lower down, though there are certainly many options for pro. I would recommend getting in a solid nut here and there; one or two of my cam placements just didn't seem a hundred percent. Fun alternative to clipping bolts, though. Alternative way past the roof would be out to the left, though to the right seems easier. Also, there's another decent trad line about 15 feet to the right that tops out through the short dihedral. Don't know the name. Probably 5.9 as well at the top. Jan 1, 2003
Jason Carter
Monument, CO
Jason Carter   Monument, CO
A fine pitch of trad climbing - sews up nicely and the 'bombay' roof is a kick after putting together the moves - the route takes a lot of med to large nuts and small to mid TCUs - the roof can be loaded with small gear before you stem into it and then can be protected again when you're in deep and ready to step out to the right - super fun trad climb in Clear Creek! I guess the anchor bolts were chopped at some point? Aug 14, 2002