Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,065 total · 30/month
Shared By: Warren Teissier on Mar 29, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

87 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


This is a really fun route on great rock and up a major hiking attraction. After all it is not everyday you get to bag an Arch....

Start at the bottom of the East face of the Arch this can be reached after climbing the Regency or simply downclimb/ hike down from the arch after reaching it via the trail.

Climb up a small flatironette at the base for an added 30 feet of climbing or start at the notch between the Flatironette and the East face.

Work your way up via the path of least resistance making sure you are seen by the hikers on the left side of the Arch. For dramatic flair, you may grunt a bit to make them think this is a hard climb.

The summit is narrow and not necesarily comfortable to hang out. Descend by retracing your steps some 50 feet and moving left (South) to the area below the arch.

Take a deep breath and start signing autographs and dispensing climbing wisdom.


Standard rack.


Mike McMahon
Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
Mike McMahon   Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
The grunts are mandatory, especially during busy summer weekends! Anyway, I wouldn't really call this a 5.4!! Jun 17, 2007
Boulder, CO
  Easy 5th
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
  Easy 5th
This is a perfect free solo as it reaches a beautiful summit right next to a trail for access. The hold are plentiful, even more so than the free-way route on the Second Flatiron.

With that said, I definitely recommend the solo circuit: Regency -- > Royal Arches -- > Anomaly (south south east of the royal arch) -- > Amoeboid (The buckets are tons of fun). This circuit appears in a number of places on the mountain project; it's excellent and well worth doing. Jun 14, 2008
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
This is an easy climb. I soloed it with very little hesitation and it was fun to impress the female hikers I was with;) Aug 8, 2008
Aaron Martinuzzi  
I'm not sure this route deserves the stars or difficulty ratings it gets; fun and well-featured, yes, classic, solid, no. There's a fair bit of lichen on the route, and plenty of skethy edges. As far as difficulty, it's 40 - 45 degrees at most and every hold is a jug if you're looking up. That said, this is a very worthwhile line on a fun, fairly exposed, formation. Apr 1, 2010
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
Not at all 5.4 if unless you really try for it. More like 4th class if you stay on the easiest route. Good times though, don't forget to smile for the cameras! Feb 26, 2013
Eben Daggett
Boulder, CO
  Easy 5th
Eben Daggett   Boulder, CO
  Easy 5th
Super fun climb! Was bringing a less experienced climber, so we roped up after seeing the 5.4 rating. Not at all. I'll give it easy 5th class rather than 4th simply because of the final ridge. Tons of people there this Memorial Day weekend. Almost like an amusement park. May 26, 2013