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Routes in Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings

Middle Wing (4th Wing), The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
North Wing Center T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Second Angel's Wing (aka South Wing Right?) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Type: Trad, 1100 ft, 9 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ted Cetaruk, Tom Burke, LP?, 1996
Page Views: 1,049 total, 6/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Hey, does anyone know of previously done rock routes here? There is potential for 9 pitch slab routes in a close but remote feeling location. These 5 wings are just south of Bear Peak, near the summit ridge, facing East. They are probably most angelic when dusted with powder.

Approach as if headed to Shadow Canyon area. We parked at the new Mesa Trailhead about a mile outside of Eldorado Springs on CO Hwy 170. Hike up South Mesa trail to Big Bluestem, head North, pass the Maiden, then bushwhack uphill. It is perhaps 2500 feet elevation gain. There is an old dilapidated structure along the way.

P1. Find the nadir of the face. Wander up to a horizontal tree.

P2. Pass overhang via a lieback and anchor below a tree at the 2nd overhang.

P3. Chimney to a face to a tenuous belay.

P4. Dance on fun slab pitches as you follow protection opportunities. Much of this is slab wherever your heart leads you. Our 4th belay was on a sloping stance with where you can sling a horn.

P5. Our 5th belay went up to a corner protected with hexes.

P6. Our 6th belay was at a tree with 2 cam placements.

P7. Our 7th belay was at a perch with a #2 Camalot.

P8. Our 8th pitch went up blunt rib to a tree.

P9. Our 9th pitch went to the top.

To escape, downclimb easy terrain to ridge and scramble down to the saddle at the top of Shadow Canyon.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot & a wee bit of a sense of adventure.

Photos

They are very hard to reach. It took us two days of research to find them. Jan 19, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.3 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.3 PG13
AKA South Wing Right in the Haas book.
South Wing Center breaks out onto what is called the 1st Wing here.
Pretty good route, and some of the cleanest hardest rock in the Flatirons.
If it took less than an hour to get in there, they'd get plenty of traffic. Dec 10, 2015