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Routes in Humphrey's Dome

Carpe Diem T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Central Chimney Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evening Light T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Frog Leg T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar Magnolia T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wench's Dihedral T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 303 total, 2/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 25, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is one slaberiffic route. The business on this outting consists of a blank face with old bolts for pro. As Jim Donini might say, it's steep but at least there are no holds. Start with an easy crack system left of the Central Chimney on Humphrey's South face.

Pitch 1: Climb broken crack system up and left to a ledge, 5.7, 100 feet.

Pitch 2: Slabadaba up the face past five bolts to a small overlap, belay above, 5.10c, 110 feet. This pitch gets an "S" rating due to old bolts, it's harder than it looks.

Pitch 3: Follow easy crack up to a large ledge and belay. 5.6, 55'.

Descent: Walk off to the climber's left.


Bring nuts and cams up to 3", quickdraws, and some slabbin' shoes.


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The bolts were old and scary in the 1980s when I did this, can't imagine what they're like now. Jan 16, 2013