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Routes in Humphrey's Dome

Carpe Diem T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Central Chimney Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evening Light T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Frog Leg T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar Magnolia T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wench's Dihedral T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 68 total, 0/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 25, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route sucks, don't do it. The Chimney is extremely obvious when you reach the base of the Dome. It starts with a small bulge/overhang and continues up the widening off-width to chimney for about 230 ft. to a large ledge. There is a large bird's nest in the crack which is difficult not to disturb as you thrutch by, pro is tricky unless you have Big Bros and the grade seems a sandbag for all except the off-width master. I didn't enjoy this route at all and only add it here so that others may be able to avoid suffering as I did. When I did this route we ended up having to do some rather sketchy simul-climbing, it is difficult to arrange a belay in the Chimney and it doesn't let up for over 200 feet, I think I got in two pieces of gear and slung a chockstone. Climb Sugar Magnolia.

Protection

BIG STUFF, ie. #4 or #5 Camalot, Big Bros etc.

Descent

Walkoff climber's left.

Photos

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Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Difficult to protect unless you use bigger pieces. My #4 Camalot was not big enough. It's also hard to build a belay anchor inside the chimney. It's tempting to sling one of those big chockstones in the chimney, but don't do it! They are very unstable and are likely to come out when force is applied. Sugar Magnolia looks much better. Apr 29, 2002
Walk off to climbers left.

Mar 27, 2002