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Central Chimney Direct
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
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Routes in Humphrey's Dome
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Carpe Diem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Central Chimney Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Evening Light T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Frog Leg T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sugar Magnolia T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wench's Dihedral T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 503 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Bryson Slothower on Mar 25, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route sucks, don't do it. The Chimney is extremely obvious when you reach the base of the Dome. It starts with a small bulge/overhang and continues up the widening off-width to chimney for about 230 ft. to a large ledge. There is a large bird's nest in the crack which is difficult not to disturb as you thrutch by, pro is tricky unless you have Big Bros and the grade seems a sandbag for all except the off-width master. I didn't enjoy this route at all and only add it here so that others may be able to avoid suffering as I did. When I did this route we ended up having to do some rather sketchy simul-climbing, it is difficult to arrange a belay in the Chimney and it doesn't let up for over 200 feet, I think I got in two pieces of gear and slung a chockstone. Climb Sugar Magnolia.
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