Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Hot Spot Area

A Quark for Quayle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Crack & Face Route S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crowbar Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Day of Reckoning S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Disappearing Man S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Five to One S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
For Love of Mother Not T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Shut Route, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honed to the Bone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mechanically Inept T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nine To Five S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shut Down, Plugged Up, and Cold to Boot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
WideSpread Shelfishness S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
World Through a Bottle, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Deaun Schovajsa and Dave Gottenborg, circa 1994.
Page Views: 1,627 total, 9/month
Shared By: David Hous on Mar 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


47 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route follows the blocky arete with a clean triangular roof about 2/3 of the way up. It is just left of the Crack & Face/Widespread Shelfishness face at left fringe of the Hot Spot area near the Winterfest Wall. I like this route better than the quality ratings in the guidebooks would indicate.

Follow rounded holds on the right side of the arete up to the ledge below the roof or up the left side of the arete transitioning to a short slab on thin exfoliation holds to the same ledge. Clip the bolt under the roof with a long draw or runner to avoid rope drag above and take the wild swing out right and mantel up on to the slab (5.9) or crank straight over the roof (5.11a). Good footwork will pay high dividends on the roof move. In either case, finish up the easier arete above on thin face holds to the anchors (#154 in Hubbel, #28 in Rolofson).

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

A. Bandos
Broomfield
A. Bandos   Broomfield
Quick beta warning:

With my fat fingers, I had to mono with right hand while deadpointing high with left to pull the roof. It's just one move, but it felt harder than 11a. Dec 7, 2014
The correct name is Crowbar Cowboy and FA was Deaun Schovajsa and Dave Gottenborg, circa 1994. Nov 26, 2008