[Hide Comment] Colin Lantz got the FA on this route. There was a large clipping block that parted from the route and you are correct that the gold shut was added after this happend. Mar 19, 2002

[Hide Comment] I occasionally see a party on this route when I'm out at the Gym but I think the intimidatingly steep nature of the climb scares some away. Definitely a must-do route. Mar 19, 2002

[Hide Comment] Super Fun Line. Worthwhile. Considered skipping both clips Adam refers to, but took fun falls every time I tried this strategy. Sent after I had the psychological comfort of clipping the goldshut. Nov 9, 2004

[Hide Comment] This route looks more intimidating than it really is. The climbing is worth the effort. Sep 8, 2007

[Hide Comment] This is a terrific route! The clipping (and climbing!) is burly near the closely spaced bolts, but the fall is into clean air. Traversing above the lip of the roof on those 4 unlikely and amazingly huge pockets will make you smile! A very long draw on the lower of the 2 close bolts could make the redpoint feel less scary.

Also, Andy Wellman and I both felt the last bolt would be much better a few feet to the left. It would still be easy to clip, you have to move left anyway for the final moves, and in its current position, it's very easy to catch a leg behind the rope while dyno-thrutching at the end. No big deal if you stick it, but not so good for falling.... Apr 20, 2008

[Hide Comment] Wow, thanks for the history lesson Colin. It's always interesting when a route-name actually has a story behind it. Now I feel more compelled to head out and try this one some day! Aug 3, 2010

[Hide Comment] This route at Shelf is your little slice of Rifle. With the exception of the first 20 feet which is a total choss pile, the rock is fairly good. Soloing on the loose rock in the bottom is a bit hollow feeling and spooky. I am guessing that one of these days a death block is going to come down, so be careful. After the first 2 bolts, the climbing gets steep to say the least with several moves where you're horizontal in a ceiling. The moves are big and burly and some of the clips are difficult to make, but the whole upper sector of the route is clean falls. All in all, a great route and a bit different and gymnastic like for Shelf Road. Super fun and should see alot more traffic in the years ahead.... Mar 26, 2011

[Hide Comment] It's been almost year since someone was nice enough to put perma-draws on Headcheese, and I just want to give thanks for their generosity! Jan 7, 2018

[Hide Comment] Was trying hard not to and was still getting the rope behind my leg at both cruxes. Pants and probably a helmet are a great idea on this one. Oct 2, 2022

[Hide Comment] It’s nice to double draw the bottom of the two closely spaced bolts. Makes clipping on the send a little easier with the reach. Pretty fun route! Apr 19, 2023

[Hide Comment] I once watched a crew of stoked bros park their car on the road below this part of the cliff, hike straight up the hillside, and attempt to TR this climb with their rope through the "Crack of Dawn" anchors. Shelf is hilarious. Nov 3, 2023