Lost in Space
Avg: 3.1 from 131 votes
Routes in Sheep's Nose
|10 Sheep and a Goat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|An Apostle or Two T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Army Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Assassination Slab T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Chinook T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Direct Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Evening Stroll T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|For Wimps Only T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Golden Fleece T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Golden Spike, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Hard Monkeys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Harpoon The Manta Ray T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|It Is Time to Space aka The Sheep Eat Grass T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Lamb's Prey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Lost in Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Old Man Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Ozone Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Pimp, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Pit of Despair, The V0 4 R|
|Psycho Babble T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Seamis T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Sheep in Wolves Clothing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Sheep with a Silver Tail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Sheeps Dare T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Sheer Sheep Attack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Southeast Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Space Cadet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Ten Years After T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|When Sheep are Nervous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||17,349 total, 91/month|
|Shared By:||Bryson Slothower on Mar 2, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionBoth Stewart Green and Peter Hubbel consider this route to be one of the best routes on Sheep's Nose. I think it's a great way to get Lost in Space. This route is but one of the many fine lines gracing the southeast buttress up to the 8,894 foot summit of Sheep's Nose. With a short approach through the Poderosa pine and a sunny southern exposure, this route is a year-round classic for everyone.
From the parking on Douglas County Rd. 68 hike along a shaded trail up through the boulders to the prominent southeast face in about 15 minutes. Lost in Space begins on the lowest point along the face in its southeast corner and climbs up into a large right facing corner near the summit. To start, look for a ledge system with a small pine tree growing out of a right-leaning corner about 75" off the ground. There are many variations and alternatives to the first pitch.
Pitch 1: 5.7 or 5.9 80' Look for a 5.7 hand crack leading up and right into an easy 5.5 corner that continues up to the tree at 70', or run it out over the slabs for cheap thrills at 5.9. Belay on a comfortable ledge above the tree. If this pitch has snow or ice on it, try Lamb's Prey, hand and finger crack 30" to the right, 5.9-.
Pitch 2: 5.8+ 130' Move above the belay and traverse right for about 10" around an arete to gain a steep fingercrack. Follow this crack straight up to some very airy moves with good holds along the arete and into a shallow dihedral above. Continue up for another 20' to a nice ledge and belay.
Pitch 3: 5.9 100' Head up and left in a thin crack. Where the crack ends (crux) move out onto the face and make a few delicate moves up the slab. climb up easier ground to a 5.4 corner above. Scale the corner on large holds and belay on a spacious pedalstal above the corner.
Pitch 4: 5.7 150' Jamalama up the right-facing corner in a clean 5.7 hand crack with perfect protection for about 100". As the angle kicks back and the corner fades, run it out over the summit slabs up to the top. Belay and enjoy the view. There are a few other excellent options to this pitch including Ozone Direct which follows the zig-zag corner system to the left of Lost In Space. 10a.
Descent: Scramble and downclimb off to the left side. There may be snow on the descent in winter months. Watch out for the Yeti.