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Routes in Rightovers

5.8 Start T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Brown Sugar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Excellent Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flake Out aka Gill Route TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Left Y Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 155 total · 1/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Mar 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The Left Y Crack, AKA The Bush Crack, is located on the Rightovers. To get to the Rightovers, head east from Turkey Tail. Drop some elevation to go along the base of the next cliff band. The Left Y Crack is unmistakable. Just look for the crack that makes an obvious Y.

Steve Cheney describes the climb as a steep hand and finger crack, but he neglects to mention the obvious part. The middle of the pitch has a gaping wide section. Shove the number 5 in it and hope you are facing the right direction. Otherwise it can be rather awkward to get back out of again. Setting an anchor on top is not too difficult. The route can be top roped with a 200' rope easily.

Walk off to the west to get back down. Enjoy.

Protection

Bring a little bit of everyting from a #5 Camalot to some small stuff.

Photos

Dan St. John
Castle Rock
Dan St. John   Castle Rock
Very cool route. Took three attempt to get the red point. This is one of those climbs that is a much harder on lead than follow. Not that the follow is easy, it is the gear management access problem. For this reason I recommend that you save #1 Camalot for the section right after the OW. A #4.5 is nice for the final move. You may discard the #5 and place a #4 deep and low in the OW crux if you can climb 10-15 feet of OW above your gear. The fall is clean so fear here is in the mind. I left the #5 on the red point (FYI). The #5 fits well, but on lead it gets in the way of the climbing but can be managed, since on my second attempt I cleared the crux only to fall at the bush; incidentally pulling out most of the bush. Yes, I an responsible for the bush demise. Vegetation in a crack is one as far as I am concerned. I think with out the bush that the climb is harder now. Aug 20, 2002