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Routes in Goat Rock

BaaaD To The Bone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bad, Bad Goat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Capra Diem S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clan Of The Goatmen S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Empire of the Goats S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Eric The Goat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goat Arete S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Goat Goes Up, Must Come Down S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goats in the Hood S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Goats on the Fringe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Flying Goats S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Goats, No Glory S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Olympic Free Style Goat Toss S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ram T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sacrificial Goat S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Satyr S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Solitary Goat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Supergoat S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 105 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Wright & Montague, 2001. FFA Montigue.
Page Views: 92 total · 0/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

No Goats, No Glory runs up the left side of the main headwall in two pitches. P1 surmounts a small roof on jugs for 5.10d. The rock to start is friable, but quickly improves at the second clip. There is a double bolt anchor at 50 feet in a good stance. P2 is a classic on brilliant stone. The first four clips entail some tricky finger work leading out right to a band of black streaked stone, the crux. Pulling through this gains a brilliant slab that just gets better and better the higher you go. While it can be done in a couple of ways, my favorite move works the right margin of the slab and picks up some instant exposure. A killer rest arises on a tiny edge poised over the precipice. FFA went to Nevada Montigue while we were trading attempts.

Protection

A dozen draws and a 60 meter rope. This route is composed of two pitches. P1 is 5.10d. P2 is 5.12a. A 60 m rope will just touch ground from the double bolt anchor at the top of P2. A 50 m rope will not.

Photos

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
P1 has a short bit of good hard climbing at maybe 10d. The horizontal at the crux is a little dirty and rounded. Climbing that last move straight up is quite hard. Moving left is a bit easier. It may also be possible to move right. Sep 14, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a
The moves getting into the second pitch near the arete are interesting. Lead as one single pitch, this is a pumpy one. Would be way more stars if the rock was better. Jul 19, 2009
Eric Peers
5.12b
Eric Peers  
5.12b
I would give this more on the order of a 5.12b. The middle part of pitch 2 felt somewhat difficult for my 5'7" frame. Very reachy.

The 5.11 section on the start of the second pitch was stellar. Very tricky climbing, but very doable. Jun 30, 2008
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
In the beta photo with the power lines, this is route #4. Sep 6, 2006

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