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Chasing Sticks

5.9, Sport,  Avg: 1.9 from 173 votes
FA: Chris Alber, Rick Leitner, 2000
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Sport Park > Surprising Crag > S Face
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a particularly poorly bolted route on the South Face of Surprising Crag - 3 routes right of Choss Temple Pilots and just right of the dihedral/offwidth. Bolt placement (first bolt 15-20 feet up a slab and a looong reach from a stance, with the second bolt 2 feet above it) makes an othewise good route lame.

Protection

Six draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Me contemplating the crux moves. Move to the wide crack to the left for a lieback. The crack will end right at the next bolt.
[Hide Photo] Me contemplating the crux moves. Move to the wide crack to the left for a lieback. The crack will end right at the next bolt.
Jeremy on Chasing Sticks (5.9).
[Hide Photo] Jeremy on Chasing Sticks (5.9).
Jeremy reaches the top of Chasing Sticks.
[Hide Photo] Jeremy reaches the top of Chasing Sticks.
The west-facing wall on Surprising Crag.<br>
Routes are right of The Fix and left of Monkey Bob.<br>
<br>
The easiest start to Chasing Sticks climbs in from the left and steps right to clip the first bolt.
[Hide Photo] The west-facing wall on Surprising Crag. Routes are right of The Fix and left of Monkey Bob. The easiest start to Chasing Sticks climbs in from the left and steps right to clip the first bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Beside the bolts, I thought this climb was pretty fun. Loved the mixed holds and the crack near the chains. Aug 15, 2007
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This is a very fun route, that was poorly bolted. Oct 26, 2007
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] As others have said, the climbing is really fun, but the equipper was on crack. Aug 10, 2008
Matt Gates
Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] Led this w/ Aliens and med./large stoppers along with clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Makes a good mixed route if you brought your rack. Aug 30, 2008
Kevin Cossel
Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The distance before the first bolt can be protected with a small to medium stopper. Other than that a good climb with a very fun layback crack near the top. Aug 23, 2009
keith story
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Fun climb, and a good work out if you work up the second and third bolt as a compression. Also, on the last crack I stemmed off the chimney to the left, which may be off route.

Loved the runout at the start. Aug 25, 2009
Alan Butler
Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] In my opinion, the first bolt was not too exposed. I would have liked it down several feet, but it did not have me extremely nervous. Just my two cents... otherwise it was a very fun climb. Apr 12, 2010
dseltzer
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] A fun route thats unfortunately just horribly bolted. Oct 24, 2011
Bawdy B
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] It is a little run out to the first bolt, but at least you have some rope in the system by the time you clip it?

This route can be made more difficult if you jam the left crack (not the dihedral). Apr 12, 2014
ChefMattThaner
Lakewood, co
  5.9
[Hide Comment] About a dozen different ways to do this route and all of them fun and exciting. Great warm-up for the area! Apr 13, 2014
[Hide Comment] Seemed harder than the supposedly 5.9+ climb to its right. The layback at the top is fairly committing if you go that way, though a slightly easier alternative is to head left and make use of the big crack in the corner. Sep 14, 2014