PRINT: Rock Climb Cruising for Bulgar, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Cruising for Bulgar

5.10b, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),

Avg: 2 from 5 votes
FA: T. Hogan & R. Rositer, 1981
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Sobo

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Once you reach Sobo, the Southwest facing prow is obvious. Cruising for Bulgar is a stellar crack system that ascends the center of the prow. Every size imaginable comes at some point along this steep and sustained route. Fingers, hands, fists and even a wide move or two.

Begin on thin moves near the ground, getting into a crack and flake system for a few feet, then up into the good crack, which is mellow for a short time, until an obvious crux (1.5"-2.0" cam or brown tricam) stops you cold. Beat that crux and then fight through the next 20' of sustained effort to reach the low angle moves. Make low angle moves to get to the summit ledge and belay.

The summit belay is most easily set on a few stoppers and 3" cams - so take an extra of that size.

The crack is very rough and will leave the hands marked and sore if you don't tape up. Although I do not generally tape, I wish I had both times I've done this route, and I strongly encourage you to do so too.

Protection

A set of TCUs, cams up to a #4 friend, and a set of stoppers.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tony Bubb leading the crux of Cruising For Bulgar (Sobo, Eldo). Photo by Peter Spindloe

The crack through the center of the bulging buttress in this Photo is Crusing For Bulgar. The face just to the right of this is Sick And Wrong.

Tony Bubb leading Cruising For Bulgar (Sobo, Eldo) just before the crux. Photo by Peter Spindloe

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Peter Spindloe
BC

Although the guidebook gives this climb 5.10a, it really deserves the 5.10b/c that Tony gives it. Tape is very definitely recommended! Feb 26, 2002

George Bell
Boulder, CO

I remember this crack being somewhat rotten, and I didn't think this route was as nice as "Good Cleavage". One star? Feb 26, 2002

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.10b

The texture is certainly aggressive, but the rock is pretty good after the first few feet. Maybe I liked the climb because it was a crack-climb and had some relatively difficult jamming and cruxes. I honestly thought both Crusing For Bulgar and Good Cleavage were great pitches, but too short to really call 3-star routes. It's always debatable I guess.

Tape would definately add to the enjoyment factor, or rather the absence of it subtracts from the potential. I have some scrapes from the acsent & generally speaking I don't have any such problem. Feb 26, 2002