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Breashear's Crack II

V3, Boulder, 19 ft,  Avg: 3.9 from 157 votes
FA: [Breashears]
Colorado > Morrison/Evergr… > Morrison Boulders > Dark Side > Cube Area

Description

This is located on the "square block" about halfway up the hill. The block can be seen from the Black Hole directly above a large pine tree on the middle of the hillside. This problem is rad. The crux is the first 8-10 feet. It has really thin laybacks and jams. The upper half of the problem is easier but pretty highball. Unless you regularly onsight .11+ finger cracks, I'd recommend a pad. This is the crack up the center of the northwest face of the square block. There are problems up both aretes on either side of the face. I'm not sure who did the first ascent or if there are any cool historical facts about this one. This is one of my favorite boulder problems. It is worth every star.

Protection

Two crashpads and two spotters preferable. The problem is about 19 ft. high with a bad landing

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Crack kills.
[Hide Photo] Crack kills.
Classic finger cranking.<br>
<br>
Photo by Tom Michael.
[Hide Photo] Classic finger cranking. Photo by Tom Michael.
Must do in the Front Range!
[Hide Photo] Must do in the Front Range!
Breashear's Crack II.<br>
<br>
-Joe Haught
[Hide Photo] Breashear's Crack II. -Joe Haught
Finger crack.
[Hide Photo] Finger crack.
On the start.
[Hide Photo] On the start.
J on B. Crack.
[Hide Photo] J on B. Crack.
Highballin'.
[Hide Photo] Highballin'.
Starting move..
[Hide Photo] Starting move..
Breashears.
[Hide Photo] Breashears.
Spotlight ascent of Breashear's Crack II.
[Hide Photo] Spotlight ascent of Breashear's Crack II.
On top of the route.
[Hide Photo] On top of the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This was a cool problem the start is hard, but about half way up the holds were [bomber]. Apr 13, 2002
[Hide Comment] As of about October of last year this problem has been harder. Chris Hanson broke a hold off of the start. It was the little left hand crimp to the left side of the crack, on about the third move I [believe]. It's not too much harder, but people have said it is harder.... Apr 18, 2002
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  V3
[Hide Comment] I'd recommend 3-4 pads with 3 spotters. High ball to the max! It gets easier the higher you go! May 24, 2006
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  V3+
[Hide Comment] Great problem, great crack. Doesn't get much better than this. Last move is a little committing.... Jun 22, 2007
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
[Hide Comment] Tried this for the first time today, last problem of the day so I wasn't full strength, I managed to work the moves till just above the flared off hands/ fingers section, where there is a good ledge 2-3 fingers deep. Right below where the flake section begins. I didn't have enough strength to get through to the next move as the feet really get in obvious and I was basically using my arms mostly.

Any advice?

Oh, I have some bring some freaking tape! I wish I did.
We had 5 pads and 1-3 spotters at a time which helped the mental factor.
Classic for sure, it will be a nice project for me. Feb 24, 2008
Bjorn
WNC
[Hide Comment] Now wouldn't the FA be David Breashears? Jul 19, 2008
[Hide Comment] This is the most beautiful line I have ever seen, or climbed, literally the world's best V3. It may seem a bit burly until you hunker down on the finger locks and figure out the sequence. Aug 8, 2008
Monty
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This might be the hardest V3 I know... great problem, very asthetic. Mar 2, 2009
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
[Hide Comment] Uh..Yeah...IMHO a sandbag at V3. Would you give this only .11c/d if leading it? Nov 8, 2009
[Hide Comment] I would say it's hard for the grade but not necessarily a sandbag. Compare it to the Aid Crack on Cob Rock in Boulder Canyon (.10d), and I would think the rating is accurate. 2-3 letter grades seems about right. Sep 5, 2011
MAKB
Denver, CO
 
chipacles
  V3-4 PG13
[Hide Comment] I haven't bouldered a whole lot, but this seemed very rough for V3 unless you're an awesome crack climber (which I'm not). If that crux were 40 feet up a climb, I'd expect it go at least 5.12a. Super aesthetic! Sep 20, 2013
WadeM
Golden, Co
  V3
[Hide Comment] Felt 11+ to me. Been on plenty of 11s in Eldo, and it's right on par. Compared to something like Gill Crack (12a), this is much easier....

With good crack technique, it's fun. Sep 16, 2014
Brett S.
Colorado
[Hide Comment] What a killer problem! My pick for best V3 in Colorado. Just go climb it. Jul 28, 2015
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  V3
[Hide Comment] The most dramatic video of a V3 you'll probably ever see - what a great little problem though!


youtube.com/watch?v=HkNFE39… Aug 20, 2015
T Dz
Golden
  V3
[Hide Comment] Best V3 in the Front Range! Apr 7, 2016
Nick Tripp
San Diego, CA
  V3
[Hide Comment] As a crack climber, I was skeptical when my friend suggested we go bouldering (after our 15+ overnight road trip from Illinois, to boot), but he managed to find the best boulder problem, as if it was tailored for me! Since I was on my way to Indian Creek, I loved it.

Worth it. Even when you’re freaking out during the topout on what your friend has assured you are ‘jugs’. Do it! Mar 16, 2018
Nik Vukovich
Denver, CO