PRINT: Rock Climb Shag, Estes Park Valley

Shag

5.7, Sport,

Avg: 2 from 38 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Big Thompson Ca… > Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock

Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023 Details

Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.

Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.

Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.

I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.

Description

This an [twelve] bolt route on the far left side of the crag. At 150 feet, this route is a long, moderate cruiser. There are some flakey and somewhat loose spots on the route. The last 50 feet have some large runouts (25 feet) on easy rock.

Descent: make 2 single rope raps using the anchors on Backpaddle. (Use a 55-60m rope). Or do a double rope rap to the ground.

Protection

12 draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Getting under way on lower Shag.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kurt Johnson
Estes Park, CO

While the top may have an easy runout, other parts of the route are curiously overbolted, with less than 3 feet between 2 of the bolts and several others which aren't much farther apart. This makes for a great beginner lead, though. We scrambled up and left (roped up - it's a little steep, and we weren't sure what kind of terrain we'd encounter) and walked off down the west gully. Feb 20, 2002

Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO

Did this route a couple of weeks ago. Actually a decent area with some summer shade for the belayer and some nice views of the higher peaks. A couple of crux moves to keep it interesting but goes well. Worth the one star it is given. We walked off as well after some exposed scrambling to the northwest. For us, however, the walk down the gully was not too straightforward and took a lot more time than anticipated. You may wish to rappel if you are in a hurry. Jul 14, 2003

Christina kalb
Boulder, CO

5.7

Bring slings if you plan to clip every bolt. Bolts zigzag up this route resulting in serious rope drag Apr 7, 2008

Greg Speer
Fort Collins, CO

Nice climb. Really had no problems with flakey or loose stuff. May 19, 2009

Rodney Ley

This is my third year of doing Shag as a nice early season warm up. Looks like most of the flakey/loose stuff is gone now. Wish a doubled 70m touched the ground---it's close but not quite close enough. Jun 4, 2011

JF M
NoCo

I counted 11 bolts today, but I could be wrong. Generally good route and the runouts indicated in the description are over very easy territory. Nothing that should stop even a new 5.7 leader. Jul 31, 2014

Chris Swope
Greeley, co

A 70m rope will reach the ground. Watch the ends, and swing climber's left slightly. Nov 27, 2018