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Dick Van Dike
5.9-,
Sport,
Avg: 2.3 from 23
votes
FA: Snively, Gillett, Huntsman
Colorado
> Estes Park Valley
> Big Thompson Ca…
> Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023. Per
JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per
Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Given the name of the adjacent route to the left, "
Law School" we were tempted to call this one "Walking the Green Mile". This is currently the furthest east (right) route on the rock. Scramble up to the first clip and wander past a few more hard to see clips until you can step left into a large, right-facing dihedral lined in fist-sized and larger quartz crystals, (some of questionable solidity). Step back right at the top, surmount a short headwall (crux), and get on the "Green Mile". This is a long, very fine grained, green intrusion that the rest of the climb follows. We were all tempted to use the fat crystals to either side, but in the end we all "Walked the Mile". Be aware that the clips are a long way apart through this section and several are impossible to see until your right on top of them. I would not suggest this route to a 5.9 leader whose only experience is in "Sport Bolted" climbs. The climbing up "The Mile" is probably only in the 5.7 range, but the leader needs to be comfortable running it out a bit. (As an aside, we also top-roped a direct connection to the headwall section, avoiding the traverse left into the dihedral staying well to the right. Excellent edging and if bolted would only take 3 clips or so as a variation, 10a/b, and would be a stupendous route.)
Protection
14- 16 clips plus anchors.
Descent
It's a double rope rap to get off (or 2 raps (single rope) using the intermediate anchors of "
Law School" directly below to the west, down 75').
![Nearing the belay on the upper section of Dick Van Dike, Jug Dome.]()
[Hide Photo] Nearing the belay on the upper section of Dick Van Dike, Jug Dome.
![Self-portrait on the lower half of Dick Van Dike, Jug Dome.]()
[Hide Photo] Self-portrait on the lower half of Dick Van Dike, Jug Dome.
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Fort Collins, CO
After climbing the quartz crystals, there are two variations for getting back up onto the face. Lie-back the flake for the easier way up. You'll see it when you get there. Nov 7, 2004
NoCo
The large crystal inclusion in the middle seemed solid today, 7/31/14.
The upper part does have some spacing between the bolts as described, but it is over considerably easier terrain (see the comment above), especially if the leader chooses to use the crystals and sidepulls bordering the "green mile" section.
A viable plan B for when the rock through Law School's first four bolts is wet. Jul 31, 2014
Fort Collins