Type: Sport
FA: RMWright, 1999 FFA ?
Page Views: 88 total · 0/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Feb 19, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Closure 8/22/18-10/16/18 7a-5p weekdays Details

Description

Start on the right side of the cave. Solve a very fingery and powerful start leading into some excellent stone. Continue on the flake crack system, moving right for the last three clips of Jack of Hearts. The FFA went to an unknown climber in the Spring of 1999.

Protection

Dozen draws and a rope.

Photos

Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.12c
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.12c
Two of the holds in the low crux leading up to the drilled mono are flexing and about to go. I think that would make this route just about impossible, unless they formed new holds. This line would be cool if someone took a ton of effort to clean the loose chips and flakes on the first half of the route and reinforced a few holds with glue. Sep 19, 2013
Steve Annecone
boulder
Steve Annecone   boulder
Hmmm, "drilled mono"?! I didn't see anything about that in the description above. Is this considered an acceptable way to develop routes in Clear Creek? Sep 20, 2013
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.12c
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.12c
I'm not 100% sure it's drilled, but it's a way to describe it since it looks that way. I hope this doesn't turn into a drilling debate, but there is a history of drilled pockets in sport climbing areas in the '90s. I'm not a history buff, but ethics do change over time and it is not acceptable anymore, but I'm not gonna hate on a route if it's already there. Sep 21, 2013