5.11b R,
Trad, 4 pitches,
Avg: 2.9 from 15
votes
FA: Bob Culp and George Hurley, 1965, FFA: Jim Erickson, 1975
Colorado
> Boulder
> Eldorado Canyon SP
> Shirt Tail Peak
This route is a forgotten classic. After getting on it for the first time, I had to do it again, and SOON.
After a junky first pitch, the climb shows 3-4 beautiful pitches on great stone, each with their own character. Tiger Balm Arete climbs the solid left-side arete of the Shirt Tail Peak, just left of the climb
Gambit .
Pitch 1: On the prow of the huge arete on Shirt-tail climb the obvious off-width system or junky, bush-choked cracks to the left (either is 5.8) to reach a big in-cut ledge system with a 7' tall pine tree and good hand-crack above. Don't belay at this tree- keep going through P2. It would also be just as well to do the first pitch of Gambit to the large belay tree and go up and left on the big shelf the first pitch belay of Tiger Balm Arete.
Pitch 2: This is the first good pitch. From the belay-tree pull up and left into the thin-hands crack. The hard part will be getting past the tree and into the crack off of the deck. Climb 45-50' of hand jams and perfect jugs to a final 6' of finger-crack (right) or wide hands crack (left) to finish on the next incut ledge. This pitch protects well with a few cams 1.5" to 3". If this pitch were longer it would be a classic in and of it's own merit, and there would be lines of climber cued up to do it. Worthy! Belay on the large ledge system above this crack.
Pitch 3: This is the crux pitch. Pull up off of the ledge system to a good, fat bolt on secure holds. Clip the bolt and twist through the big crux move. I found this to be much more technical then powerful. This long move (5.11b) would be extremely difficult without the right body position. Above the crux move there are good holds, but the wall is steep and does not give good rest. Move up and right (5.10a) from the in-cuts to a large horizontal (you can place #4.5- #5 camalots in this broken groove) and then up to a small crack in a right-facing feature (5.9). Load this with RP's or small nuts and a ball-nut before continuing up (5.8) and onto the slab above (5.7). The slab protects occasionally and should be considered S, but if you get that far, I don't think you will be falling at that point. Continue up the slabby face past a small ledge (5.4) to the next incut ledge and belay from the large pine tree with fixed anchors (100').
Pitch 4: There are a few options, but the best two both start by climbing straight up above through the finger-crack with 2 big jugs, a fun and physical start. After 30' the route splits Option 4a: Climb up the easy, well protected, left-facing corner and hand traverse (5.9) out the roof to reach the arete. This will create drag if you were hoping to shoot for the summit from the last belay. Option 4b: Climb up the dark arete up and two your right for 35 feet. This will leave the rope free of drag, and if you have a 60m rope (a 50m MIGHT work), you can run for the summit. This is 5.8- and has no protection at all. A fall would be a career-ender, but the moves are secure and relatively easy. All finish: Continue up the sharp prow of the arete, protecting when ever pro becomes available, as it may not again soon. Since there are no really good belays on the arete, fire for the spectacular summit of Shirt Tail Peak for a belay. The final 35 meter arete is comparable to the summit pitch of
The Yellow Spur. However, the pitch is a little more vertical, a little more protectable, and in my opinion, a little better.
What a fabulous route!
The crux is bolted. After the crux the climb is mostly small wires and a small ballnut, but take a standard rack of cams to proect the rest.
If you think you will be afraid of a 15' ledge fall from the 5.9 moves, a #4.5 and #5 Camalot can be placed in a broken horizontal for protection just above the crux bolt.
Rossiter gives this climb a VS, but I don't agree with the rating. Several good nuts can be placed along the way and the only real runouts are rated 5.7.
Lakewood, CO
Fort Collins, CO
Fort Collins, CO
Fort Collins, CO
Fort Collins, CO
Fort Collins, CO
Fort Collins, CO
Boulder, CO
Around Boulder, CO
Prior to this time I held my comments, for lack of having done it both ways. But now I feel I have put in the requisite work to formulate an informed and well-grounded opinion of the situation.
The 'variation' is a different route. It really is, no sarcasm intended. It has good climbing, probably 3 stars out of 4. Even if it shared no space with TBA, it would be 2 out of 4- good climbing with its own merit. It is worth bolting and having and climbing. But...
Not at the expense of the superior quality and historical precedent of Tiger Balm Arete. Yesterday, after doing a pitch to feel out how my day would be, to see if I felt solid and secure, to test my muscles and balance, to test my head... I threw down the rope at the base and headed up on lead. I placed a small green Alien in the horizontal at the base, grabbed the starting holds, took a deep breath and looked my partner seriously in the eye-
"If I fall above that bolt, you yard in rope and jump down there to take in slack. There are broken people from that fall. You know what I mean?"
"Yes, I have you."
I worked up the trust in myself and my belayer, then cast off. I went up to the less-than-perfect feet, clipped the bolt, and then started up the off-angled holds and onto the crux crimp. I locked off hard and got both feet left and hit the big reach square like I wanted. I breathed again, looking up, then down. I continued past the bolt, placing a pretty bad stopper and clipped that with a screamer. I made a few more moves and passed a small Alien placement, skipping that for lack of having one with me (small fuss here) and continued a few more moves into ledge-fall territory. I arrived at the 4.5 Camalot placement in the horizontal, and looked up at the easier climbing to come. I was done- "In there" so to speak.... I breathed a sign of relief.
I looked over left at the bolt just a move down and thought... "Hmmm, so that is the 'new line.'
From the 5.9 slab, I backed down a few moves and went left to the bolt from just below it and clipped it, continuing up that line. Along it I encountered an insecure independent crux on the line at the near top by a slight overlapping seam. It was interesting and challenging climbing.
I sort of felt like I'd climbed Tiger Balm Arete for the 3rd time. But then again, not quite....
I had approached Tiger Balm with some level of nervousness both this time and prior to now. I climbed a pitch or two to be sure I was "on" that day. I shook out and stretched, meditating a little before getting on it, thinking to myself, "it's OK, you DON'T fall on 5.9s." I tested the holds and my grip, I tried to stay focused, and then went for it with some anxiety.
Thus is the Eldo ritual of climbing R-rated routes- routes with reps. "The leader must not fall" was the standard, and for that matter, mostly can't bail out either. For other history, philosophy, or points of view on this ethic (mostly similar), you can refer to the articles on Eldo climbing that have been in the mags over the years, including the recent one featuring Hank.
But this route, Tiger Balm Arete, has now been diminished. No longer must a climber aspire to it, no longer must we approach it with the respect that it once demanded, nor wait until the time was right and the feeling was there. No longer will the ritual be necessary, no longer need we wait for the right day. No longer will it be left highlighted, but unchecked in 100 guidebooks, as a dream of stronger days.
Now we can just go for it in sport style. If you get up there and are not feeling the love, just reach one move left and go sport climbing. The left way is a good route, after all, right?!?! And safe! There is no real need to commit anymore. It's now a cheap Vegas wedding with a pre-nup and severance/divorce paperwork pre-signed, just waiting for your first fight for an excuse to bail out.
So if you feel that the mental experience of climbing is not the real experience, and that all things should have safe bail-out and alternatives...and if you feel that the physical part of climbing is really where it is at, and that rite and ritual are not a part of the game...and if you think that a new-router should have this creative license to wipe out what once was to put in something new....
Only then could I say that there is a great new addition to climbing in Eldo for you to experience. But instead, I say there is one less. May 27, 2007
Aurora, CO
Stu Ritchie Jun 6, 2008
I think maybe I'll do both ways...I won't say I'm unhappy about an out-of-character bolted route in Eldo until I try it... Sep 12, 2008
Fort Collins CO
I don't think the bolted variation to the left affects this route. The serious part is getting in good small gear (or the #5) after the crux. A fall here might put you on the ledge below. The runout on the upper slab is pretty mellow with positive holds. (~5.7R) Oct 12, 2011
Billings, MT
Boulder, CO
Moral of the story -- head right after the first bolt if you want to climb the original line. Mar 10, 2014