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Mint Jam

5.8+, Trad,  Avg: 2.8 from 58 votes
FA: KC Baum
Colorado > Grand Junction… > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Un… > Mother's Buttress > Lower Mother's Buttress

Description

Mint Jam is one of the fine, single pitch routes located on the eastern end of the Lower Mothers Buttress. There are several high quality moderate crack climbs in this area, Mint Jam is one of the more obvious.

Start in a large chimney-type alcove with a body length roof on the left side spilt by a finger crack. The route follows this crack through the roof (8+) and continues up to a good ledge. Follow a nice hand crack straight up to the offwidth crux. Stem through the offwidth and belay on a large ledge at 90'. Either walk off to the East or if you plan on doing another of the good routes that end on the same ledge, leave an anchor and rap.

Location

The trail leading up from the road deposits you almost directly below the start of the route.

Protection

A standard rack up to #3 Camalot.

Per Sarah Meiser: there is now a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this climb.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mint Jam.
[Hide Photo] Mint Jam.
Jim leading the layback roof problem just above the start.  This is not the crux.  That's just before the end in the off-width.
[Hide Photo] Jim leading the layback roof problem just above the start. This is not the crux. That's just before the end in the off-width.
Alison Conrad all pretzeled-up under the Mint Jam roof, reminiscent of The Cave Exit at Lumpy.
[Hide Photo] Alison Conrad all pretzeled-up under the Mint Jam roof, reminiscent of The Cave Exit at Lumpy.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Chan
Denver
 
[Hide Comment] Excellent pitch! I was definitely happy to have a #3 Camalot for the crux OW at the top. Bolted rap anchor gets you down with one 60m line. 5.8+/5.9- seems about right. Jun 28, 2005
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Be sure to save the #3 Camalot for the top (crux). Apr 23, 2007
[Hide Comment] Classic route with perfect stone! Aug 17, 2011
Garret Nuzzo Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] A #4 plugs in nicely right at the start of the OW. I threw in two more #3s to finish off the climb. Nov 11, 2013
Will Pope
Clayton Nc
[Hide Comment] One medium Metolius supercam plugged 2/3 of the way up the OW provides ample, confidence inspiring protection. Aug 5, 2020