East Face and South Ridge
Avg: 1 from 10 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||317 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||George Bell on May 2, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a strange climb. Not only is it more lichen climbing than rock climbing, but most of the first pitch you are only 20 feet above the Royal Arch Trail - literally, as it zig-zags up the south side of this formation. The climb is about 300' long (2 pitches).
Step onto the lichen near the left (south) side of the East Face (a few feet right of the trail), and head up. Protection can be found but you have to work at it. The climbing is quite easy but the lichen makes it scary. Near the crux you will see two large Ponderosa Pines above you. One of them grows by the trail and up the South Face, the other is on the East Face itself. The crux is heading straight up the left edge of the East Face between these two trees.
There is pro behind a hollow ear-like flake off to the left below the crux. Unfortunately it's quite exposed moving left to this flake, take care not to drop anything (particularly yourself) onto a passing hiker. After the crux lichen, exit into a tree and onto a large ledge. After this section the climbing eases to 4th class and the lichen is less. You can belay as the face turns more to a ridge and heads right (south).
The last pitch is 3rd or 4th class and ends at some pitons just before the summit. To descend, downclimb the route for 75' or so, and walk off west on an easy ledge.