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5.7 Dihedral

5.7, Trad, TR,  Avg: 2.2 from 88 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Golden > Lookout Mtn Rd > Lookout Mtn Crag

Description

This route is on the left side of the crag in an obvious dihedral. The climbing is very good, and I would give it three stars except it is lacking length and location. It starts on the slab and works its way up the dihedral to a weird chimney thing. This is the short but awkward crux. You can traverse diagonally left across a bulge after this to the bolts, but it is much better to continue up the dihedral to the fist crack under the roof and traverse left.

This is a great route with excellent rock and fun climbing.

Protection

It can be climbed on toprope, but a solid directional is needed if you use the bolts near the top. Some jackass put these bolts in, so be sure to loop a runner through one or else you will edge load the carabiner. There is plenty of places to set up a gear toprope. This is best done as a trad lead. The bottom section eats up nuts, and there are a couple large cam placements (3.5 or 4) near the top. Standard rack. ~60 feet?

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The route follows the corner to the top.
[Hide Photo] The route follows the corner to the top.
Peter Dillon, enjoying the nice face holds left of the corner.
[Hide Photo] Peter Dillon, enjoying the nice face holds left of the corner.
Irina Overeem laybacking up the corner.
[Hide Photo] Irina Overeem laybacking up the corner.
Kristin Knudson, onsight.  Her first trad lead.  Photo by James Crasta.
[Hide Photo] Kristin Knudson, onsight. Her first trad lead. Photo by James Crasta.
The Dihedral.
[Hide Photo] The Dihedral.
The top of the dihedral.
[Hide Photo] The top of the dihedral.
Rob works the Dihedral while Sharon starts the roof on "Into the Void".
[Hide Photo] Rob works the Dihedral while Sharon starts the roof on "Into the Void".

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Casey Bernal
Wheat Ridge, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I forgot to mention that there is one bolt in an alcove near the top. This can be used to get to the bolt anchor below. Otherwise it is a sketchy downclimb to them. Feb 13, 2002
[Hide Comment] Who's the moron that put bolts in on this route??? This was probably my fourth or fifth trad lead, in my first year of climbing (early 1997). I later went back and did it as a naked nighttime (partially drunk) free solo. This is what happens when you get bored during the week as a student at Mines, I guess. Why, oh, why did I come back for grad school? Feb 13, 2002
[Hide Comment] I have it on good authority that anyone bringing a bolt kit to this crag will be hit struck by lightning. Feb 28, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] A fun route up a clean, easy corner. Felt more like 5.6 than 5.7.

A fun route on solid rock.

Lots of holds on the face left of the corner keep the climbing moderate. Sep 7, 2003
Jeremy Hakes
Golden, Colorado
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Someone replaced the anchors! Yay! New TR anchors in place. Oct 30, 2006
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
[Hide Comment] The super secret way to get through the crux squeeze is to find the handhold for your left hand on the left face and move to the left onto the slab, thusly avoiding the squeeze altogether. Sep 2, 2007
Phil Persson
Denver, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Fun! I love this crag! 30 second approach, usually empty, great Trad in addition to TR's and Sport routes... there's something here for everyone. Oct 7, 2008
Walt Barker
Reno NV
 
[Hide Comment] Awesome climb, bizarre crux. Plugged #4 and # 3 Camalots into the fist crack for the traverse to the chains. For the chains, just bring about 15' of webbing and you can equalize the anchor just fine. Aug 11, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.7
[Hide Comment] You can equalize the anchor with much less than 15' of webbing as mentioned in the comment above. Nov 27, 2012
ChefMattThaner
Lakewood, co
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Squeezing through that chimney with a couple big cams on the harness was not the easiest. Also I would recommend using the slightly lower and slightly to the left anchors and using a #4 or even a #1 C4 in the under cling as a directional if top roping this. The anchors for this route are terrible for top roping. May 5, 2014