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Routes in Hot Spot Area

A Quark for Quayle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Crack & Face Route S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crowbar Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Day of Reckoning S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Disappearing Man S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Five to One S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
For Love of Mother Not T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Shut Route, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honed to the Bone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mechanically Inept T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nine To Five S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shut Down, Plugged Up, and Cold to Boot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
WideSpread Shelfishness S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
World Through a Bottle, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: unpublished
Page Views: 846 total, 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 2, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

This little gem lies immediately right of Nine To Five and poses an interesting technical problem. The route can be done as left and right variations with some variance in grade. This is a good problem and always worth a burn.

Protection

Three draws and a rope.
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
"Gold Shut" sounds short, pumpy, balancy, and technical. Very intriguing. Jan 16, 2017
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10b
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10b
I agree with the above comments about the rating. "Mechanically Inept" is listed on this site. Above the third bolt you can place a small cam if you have one. It's good the route "gold shuts" have been replaced but the anchor still has them. Jan 9, 2017
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
5.12-
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
5.12-
I took the "left" variation staying on line and a little to the left of the bolts and it was harder then 11a. It gives you not good feet and a couple crimps. Balancy and technical. But the moves are fun! Try it! Watch out not to deck. It's a bit of a runout from the 3rd bolt to the anchor.

You can make this as hard as you want really. But it's not a 10 unless you take the far right side. 11a to the right and 12- I would say for the left. Jul 29, 2010
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.10d
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.10d
Nice, pumpy, short route. Good rock with solid holds. A bit tenuous as a fall just before bolt 2 could put you near a ground impact, and there's a pretty good runout (but easier climbing) from bolt 3 to the anchors. Can lead the 5.8 crack trad to the left ("Mechanically Inept", not listed on this site) to access the top anchors. Gold Shut rating depends on where you climb left to right. Left of bolts is way hard (too hard for me to rate), just right of bolts is probably 11a, and further right is maybe 10a. Feb 3, 2010