Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade III
FA: Duncan Ferguson and Mark Hesse
Page Views: 1,378 total · 7/month
Shared By: paco on Jan 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


The South Face of The Foil starts out a lemon, but the upper half is classic. Being a solid 5.9 leader is a good thing on a few of the pitches on this route. Start up the lichen covered ledges and hit the sandbag 5.7 chimney above. By way of the Rossiter topo, we almost linked the 1st four pitches in two with a 60m rope. The only runout section on the runout pitch felt to be around 5.7/8? with a strenuous, well-protected, 5.9 section after that.

Just make sure you traverse left in the right spot to find the second to the last pitch. This is so damn good and exposed. This is the pitch you want to lead, so make sure your partner doesn't get it! You can also link the last two in one with 60m. After finishing the summit ow, you can take turns standing on perhaps the narrowest summit in the park.


Bring along the old high peak rack up to a #4 Camalot and some extra small wires and TCUs.
Did this route many years ago & the description is right about finding the correct path to the left on the last pitch. My partner didn't, & instead did a funky, lichen-covered, weird up & down face traverse to the right across the top of the east face then up to the summit. I don't recommend that finish - find the line. Aug 31, 2002
Tommy Ormond
Eldorado Springs, CO
Tommy Ormond   Eldorado Springs, CO
Just did this route. Thought it was great. The beginning is a loose, steep corner upto a weird flake below a fist-sized crack in a corner. The 2nd pitch goes through the lieback in the corner to a chimney all about 5.8 and well-protected. The next pitch has options, we took the clean face to the left at 10a not protected, for a full 200 ft pitch. We joined the route back at the 5.9 R section and moved around to the right to the mega kajunga, last pitch of 5.9+, well-protected, heart stopping exposure, the storm is coming for me the storm is coming for me.

The whole time we thought we were on the Petit Grepon. The first pitch put serious doubts in our mind. The mind that we share together, me and Lee.

I wonder how many stories start like that:

"Well we thought we were on the Petit Grepon until...."

The rappel off the north side is mank. Bring slings and biners you will leave behind, but it lands you around Poc Club, just a short scramble from the base of The South Face route. Jul 31, 2012
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
The route on the north face is called the Poe Club and has some 5.11 near the start. However, once you are high up on South Face, if you find the runout unnerving just before the 4 inch crack to the summit, you can move right and find a nice hand crack that goes at 5.9+ (10a) that will get you up with good protection at slightly harder climbing. This leads to the rappel slings just below the summit. Aug 18, 2014