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Leprechaun Promenade

5.10b R, Sport, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 17 votes
FA: Griffith / Guerin '81
Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > Fern Canyon > Fiddlehead
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This route is located directly on the standard rappel line of the west side of Fiddlehead summit. It was probably climbed as a top rope problem long before bolts appeared.

This is a beautiful face with nice edges, but there is ground fall potential on clipping all three of the bolts. A few small RPs after the 2nd bolt might keep you off the ground. (3 stars as a TR, 2 stars as a sport climb.)

Descent: Rap 60 feet off of slings.

Protection

3 draws and maybe some RPs.

Per Neil Chelton: to make it not R-rated, bring small cams and nuts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The top and mid anchors are now bolted.
[Hide Photo] The top and mid anchors are now bolted.
From Pallaea.
[Hide Photo] From Pallaea.
Neil Chelton crimping up Leprechaun Promenade.
[Hide Photo] Neil Chelton crimping up Leprechaun Promenade.
Kat A. leads through the second pitch crux heel-hook (5.9+) of Leprachaun Promenade (10b, PG-13) on the Upper North face of the Fiddle Head in the Flatirons of Boulder, CO. Photo by Tony B, 9/09.
[Hide Photo] Kat A. leads through the second pitch crux heel-hook (5.9+) of Leprachaun Promenade (10b, PG-13) on the Upper North face of the Fiddle Head in the Flatirons of Boulder, CO. Photo by Tony B, 9/09.
Tron-sight, Mark Roth.
[Hide Photo] Tron-sight, Mark Roth.
Great rock with fun moves.<br> Photo: Roth.
[Hide Photo] Great rock with fun moves. Photo: Roth.
Jesse on the sharp end, working the upper portion of Leprechaun.
[Hide Photo] Jesse on the sharp end, working the upper portion of Leprechaun.
Chris Parks follows up on 'Leprechaun Promenade (10b, S) on the Fiddle Head of Fern Canyon, in the Flatirons. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2004.
[Hide Photo] Chris Parks follows up on 'Leprechaun Promenade (10b, S) on the Fiddle Head of Fern Canyon, in the Flatirons. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2004.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Art Veenendaal
[Hide Comment] A bomber purple Camalot can be placed between the 1st and 2nd bolt in a 1" seam that angles up and right...the further right you place the piece, the higher it will be. A yellow Alien can be placed between the 2nd and 3rd bolt in an obvious pocket. Both gear placements make the climb very safe. The only real danger is making the first clip.... Jan 12, 2004
Jason Haas
Broomfield, CO
[Hide Comment] Matt Samet and I replaced all three bolts on this route today 9/1/08 with beefy 1/2" ARI stainless. Please support the ARI if you don't already. Also, this route would benefit from a real bolted anchor up top rather than the shotty slung block on the ledge. My two cents anyway. Sep 1, 2008
Aaron Martinuzzi
 
[Hide Comment] This route has a second pitch that ascends the roof and face above the initial top-out ledge. clamber up beneath a big flake and roof, place some gear, and yard over - 9+/10a, very fun and very well-protected. The face above has a good bit of lichen, but the climbing is very easy, probably 5.8 on chicken heads. There is currently a three-sling anchor near the top of this second pitch that allows for a ~33m rappel back to the base of the wall. If you're spending some time on this little wall, the second pitch is well worth doing. Sep 25, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
[Hide Comment] Really fun face climbing! There is definitely gear between the bolts, and it is not "R" at all. Oct 3, 2009
neil chelton
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] It's 'R' rated if you only take 3 quick-draws up there. However, theres at least 2 good gear placements between each bolt and after the last bolt. Bring small cams and nuts. Oct 30, 2010